Posts.
Our adventures are captured here, for us to relive, and for you to join in on the journey.
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Entry Thirty.
Patagonia, Chile.
We’re back! Car found, still in one piece, and straight off to our 3rd accommodation in Puerto Natales. This one, a clear stand out from the others. Whilst slightly on the outskirts of town, we had a kitchen, a hot shower and a working heater. What more could you want really.
This PN stint was all about one thing. Going into the national park (finally). The reason we were holding off was two fold. Firstly, once you buy your ticket you have a 3 day window and secondly, weather. We did take the risk and come in shoulder season, not that we planned that at all, but it became quickly evident that this time of year, the weather is turbulent. The first day back was by far the coldest yet. We are talking snow, rain, wind, arctic level coldness. So naturally, the park was binned off and we had a wet weather program which involved buying canvas’s and painting all afternoon.
With only 3 days left we bit the bullet and bought the tickets praying to the weather gods that they would be kind. Ultimately it was not the day for it so another day inside was had. The following day however, we were on. In the car bright and early we made the 2 hour drive to Salto grande. This drive was special. Who knew so many guanacos existed in this region! The previous freezing days meant for beautiful snowcapped mountains with colourful autumnal trees surrounding. Salto grande is a large waterfall a short 10 minute walk from the carpark, definitely worth the drive. With the rain holding out we ventured on and a gentle 45minute walk later we arrived at mirador cuernos. If you’re looking for an easy hike this is the one.
Back in town that night we picked up our mandatory equipment (crampons and poles) ready for the early morning the following day. This is the whole reason we came to this town. Hike to base Torres. 25km and circa 8 hours. We had put all of our eggs in this basket hoping that on the final day the weather would be perfect. Boy did it pay off. Blue skies, 12 degrees. Can’t ask for much more.
Some tips if you’re coming this way. Having a car made this all very easy. You drive 1.5hrs to Laguna Amarga, check in, then drive another 20minutes to the welcome centre. We got very lucky and even spotted a puma as we drove in. At the welcome centre, there is plenty of parking if you arrive around 9:15am. The hike starts and ends here so as soon as you finish you can drive off into the sunset, rather than joining the hundreds (literally) of backpackers who have to wait for the shuttles.
By 9:40am we were on the trail. Naive, slightly nervous and happy to finally be moving. Next tip, wear layers. By 9:50am we had delayered and pretty much didn’t put them back on until we finished. If the sun is out, it is warm. The first 30 minutes are flat, you are walking to the base of the mountain, then the incline starts. After an hour of incline you reach the windy pass. Which, you guessed it, is windy. Then it is pretty much flat and then declines as you stumble into the refugio at the half way point. This is your one chance to go to the bathroom, eat, top up water bottles.
From here it’s about 2-3hours more, depending how quickly you walk. For reference, we walk a very average pace and it took us 4 hours of walking from the start to the top. After the refugio you’ll spend about an hour walking through the forest. At some point we reached a park ranger who was checking if you had crampons. Sadly, if you didn’t, you could either run back to the refugio and buy them, or your hike was over. You should get an email when you book that will tell you if you need to rent them, if you do, it’s cheaper to get them in town.
Soon after that, we reached the famous scramble. Note – This section closes at 2pm so make sure you leave the refugio by 12:30 at the latest. The final hour of the hike is essentially bouldering up the mountain. If you are going after a few days of snow and sun, you will be like us, and end up bouldering through a rapid stream. It is dangerous but the sheer volume of people trying to get up the mountain means you are moving very slow so it was actually my favourite part of the hike.
For the last 15 minutes you reach the snow line so it’s crampons on and ice hiking time. And then there it is in all its glory, base Torres. You and thousands of other tourists get to experience a very special place. So special, a proposal happened right in front of us (not ours). And just as you’re feeling very proud of yourself for making it, you will look around and notice a few senior citizens (we’re talking 75+) who made it up in the same time as you. Humbling.
We sat and refueled here for about 30minutes before everyone was kicked out at 3pm to start the hike back. We assume it’s to make sure you’re done before it’s dark which is a good idea because there are limited signs and no lights to guide you if you get lost. By 7pm we were back down at the welcome centre and in the car ready for a lie down.
Chau.
G&M














Entry Twenty Nine.
Patagonia, Argentina.
Ensuring the car was safely parked on some dodgy side street in Puerto Natales, we had to cop the £30pp bus to take us over the border to El Calafate. Escorted to the bus station by two friendly dogs, we arrived to find every other gringo in town had the same plan. After a long check in process we were advised of the “small problem, 30 minute delay” which was either a lie or lost in translation but 3 hours later the bus arrived, no mention of the delay, and we were off. Marga Taqsa, we won’t be recommending you.
Christ it’s cold here. It has to be the windiest and coldest border crossing in the world.
We finally arrived in El Calafate. A little less prepared than we usually are. No sim, no cash, and two very tired travellers. First, an obvious stop to the supermarket to stock up. Next problem was the Airbnb we booked under the pretense of having a car that happened to be on the edge of town, 1 hour walk away, and no free cancellation. No problem, we will catch an uber. Next problem, no uber. Next problem, no cash. We eventually found an atm, got some cash to pay for the local taxi’s, not without the £12 withdrawal fee though. Hmm.
But alas, taxi flagged down and airbnb located. It was time to settle in for the night in a cute cottage, which, best of all has 2 German shepherds, one being a puppy (Moka), that roam in the garden. A lovely view of Lago Argentino to wake up to is a real treat.
Advised that the walk into town is only 25 minutes we thought we’d give it a go, either our hosts are pro sprinters or we walk unnaturally slowly. Also unsure how they define town, but our definition being the distance to the nice coffee shop, meant we were on the move for quite a while. Calafate coffee roasters by the way. Very nice.
As far as the town goes, it’s very nice. Think European ski village. Rather expensive shops to get any of your hiking needs, nice restaurants and breweries. This versus Puerto Natales, there is no competition. Argentina wins this one.
Day two we bit the bullet and hired a car to see the one main (only) attraction of El Calafate, Perito Merino glacier. If you’re coming here we recommend the car. Bus tickets are 50,000ARS pp or you can get a car for 105,000ARS. If there’s two of you it becomes very worth it for the extra £2.50 to just get a car. The drive itself, beautiful. Having a car meant we could stop and take photos along the way. Which we did quite a bit. Being on our own timeline also meant it was a very chill day out, we arrived about 12:30pm, had a BYO sandwich and headed into the park. It’s 45,000ARS pp entry so it can quickly become an expensive day but the glacier is very impressive and all in all worth it.
Back in El Calafate we went for a spin around the town to see all the bits harder to see by foot. Now only do this if you are stronger than us because we went and sat by the lake and a stray German Shepard mixed puppy became our friend. We named her Cali, after Cal(i)afate obviously. Let’s just say leaving her was not easy but her belly is now nice and full. After your heart is sufficiently broken, head towards Reserva Laguna Nimez, a beautiful local area where you can picture yourself in any of the very expensive houses on the lakefront and also get up close to some horses.
All that driving and in need of a Friday night treat we went out for pizza. El Giata do a very nice pepperoni if you’re in need. Feeling brave we also tried the local dessert, mantecol casero. Not bad, definitely crushed the sweet craving.
After tossing up another car hire to go check out El Chalten, which was the original plan assuming we had the Suzuki with us, we decided to hunker down in El Calafate. Had this been the start of the trip I’m sure we would have just gone for it, but the budget, let’s be honest, is well and truly blown, so we are being (a bit) responsible and staying put. I’m sure the day will come when we will see the famous Patagonia logo mountain, Mount Fitz Roy, but that day is sadly not today.
Back to Chile to collect our car, hopefully it’s still in one piece, and check out Torres del Paine.
Cya!
G&M
March 2026












Entry Twenty Eight.
Patagonia, Chile.
We’ve booked 3 weeks in Patagonia. With the hope (emphasis on hope) of exploring as much of the region as possible, with the help of our budget hire car. More on this later.
We landed in Punta Arenas about 3am and headed straight for our beds at the chalet (not as fancy as it sounds). Fun fact, Punta Arenas is the furthest south either of us have ever been! Boy is it cold here! Going from 30 degrees in Santiago to a measly 7 degrees down here. No thanks amigo.
There isn’t a great deal going on down in Punta Arenas, but it is a charming and quaint little town. Our shoutout goes to Vaho for their coffee, playlist and impeccable vibes. A night or two is enough here – make sure you pack your thermals and wooly socks.
That friendly local budget hire car that we secured months in advance turned out to be not so much of a deal as we thought. Partly our fault for not doing our homework to check if the rental car we collected in Punta Arenas, Chile, can actually go over the border into Argentina. We learnt the answer to this about 15 minutes before picking the car up whilst sitting in a cafe all excited. Safe to say, the morning coffee was ruined but nonetheless the car was secured with determination to make it work. Sadly this whole debacle has limited us somewhat, but we have a work around by once again relying on the trusty tourist bus. Thank you bus bud.
Car secured, next up was Puerto Natales, the gateway to Torres Del Paine national park. Nice easy 3 hour drive north from Punta Arenas on the Ruta del Fin del Mundo (the route of the end of the world). No hassle for the small and mighty Suzuki. On the drive we officially ticked off the 4th and final camalid of those to be seen in South America, the Guanaco.
This is a very popular town with tourists looking for a slice of the action in the national park. In our opinion, it’s a little overrated. Accommodation and food is very expensive, and without a rental car you’re stuck on tours which are unbelievably expensive. Make sure you save your pennies if you want to come to this part of the world! Our cosy cabin was only equipped with a kettle so our aspirations of saving money by cooking was limited but never fear, pot noodles can be found in abundance in the local supermarket. The pick and mix sweets section on the way out did rinse the budget however.
We did get down to the Mylodon Cave to see the giant sloth. Not a bad spot to visit. The mirador (viewpoint) is also pretty groovy. Lots to see up there, the perfect spot for a ham and cheese sandwich. Just make sure to stay on your feet.
Other than heading into the park there are a few nice drives to do too, we liked Laguna Sophia, very quiet and you can also spot some condors! Glad we didn’t pay all that money in Peru to see them now. We have a few days in Argentina after our short stay in Puerto Natales, after which we are returning and will pay the £30 entry fee to enter the national park itself and do all the famous hikes. Hopefully there is a chance for redemption.
G&M
March 2026














Entry Twenty Seven.
Santiago, Chile.
Finally, a nice Airbnb in the upmarket area of a nice city. Let us tell you, Santiago delivered. It really does make a difference where your accommodation is on trips like this. It can make or break your experience and opinion. Thankfully, Lastarria made our experience. Right opposite Santa Lucia Hill and round the corner from artisan cafes, thrift stores and restaurants. Delightful.
In total, we had 5 days in Santiago which was plentiful to see the highlights. We definitely could have spent many more by eating and drinking our way through the plethora of restaurants around Barrio Italia, or soaking up some more live jazz at Thelonious Jazz Club in Bellavista.
A pleasant surprise was the multi-levelled food court within Mercado Urbano Tobalaba. Top tip is not to go during the lunch hour rush! Shoutouts to Meze (Mediterranean) and Donde Naresh (Indian), both of which were sampled and both of which were recommendable. Followed up with a cheeky gelato on the way out, thank you very much.
It was also time to get back into one of our favourite past times, thrifting. It would appear there is a second hand clothing store on every street corner in Santiago so we were in our element. Nostalgia and Orange Blue seem to be the most popular, with an amazing weekend market on Biobio Street in San Isidro. This we would highly recommend as we picked up some absolute gems. If you’re felling brave, there is a grumpy lady on the corner selling mysterious empanadas out of a shopping trolley for £1.50. (this could be a lie, but it was cheap!) Very tasty, no food poisoning acquired.
We also had time to squeeze in a mooch around the historic centre, and a trip up the funicular to San Cristobal hill to see Cristina the Redeemer herself.
All in all, a lovely city. A must visit if you’re ever on this side of the world. Thankful for the time we got to spend here because now its onwards to the desolation of Patagonia. Time to leave the conveniences of the city behind for some countryside living.
See ya down south.
G&M
March 2026


















Entry Twenty Six.
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.
Successfully walked across the border after being thoroughly checked for contraband, i.e flamingo feathers. Just like that, country numero siete. (7). We were pre warned that Chile and Argentina are the more expensive of the Latin American countries. We can confirm those rumors are in fact TRUE. Did we do this trip the wrong way round? Oops.
One welcomed surprise was the weather. It is hawt here. Which was perfectly aligned with our next hotel having a pool. After a few busy days bopping around the Atacama desert and Salar de Uyuni some well needed r&r was in order.
True to our travelling style, we also needed to scout out the local food and coffee spots. Special mention to Jumataki, which we think has only recently opened. The chicken burgers, and special four legged guests are a real treat. To our surprise, we had booked a tour to the valley of the moon (must have been booked months ago). A must do indeed, a lovely late afternoon/evening tour into the nearby Valle de la Luna with a very nice and informative tour guide. On the recommendation from a friend Georgia made in the toilet (which she does often) we also booked on for a stargazing tour the following evening. It was something neither of us had done before and it was bloomin’ great. We saw the milky way, some stars, the southern cross, orions belt, jupiter and some other stuff. The whole thing could have been totally made up but the tour guide made it sound plausible. For the “humble” price of £25 each, this 2 hour tour also included refreshments and a free photo of you underneath the milky way. This does sound a bit of a novelty, but the picture actually came out pretty good. Please see below.
Considering we’d just spent the last 3 days touring the Atacama Desert, we didn’t really feel like anymore tours so decided on a few days of relaxing and the inevitable planning needed for the next few weeks.
Eventually it was time to bop off to Calama airport, which is bloody miles away and only accessible by a lady taxi driver who decided the uber price she agreed was too low when she arrived to pick us up at 6am. 20,000 chilean pesos later, to cover her “costs” we were heading off to the capital city, Santiago.
Apparently the most developed city in South America and we’d also landed a pretty sweet Airbnb (well from the pictures anyways).
Lets see if it lives up the hype.
Ciao.
G&M
March 2026

Entry Twenty Five.
Uyuni, Bolivia.
Another successful overnight bus done. This one even came with food, ooo boujie! By 7am we stumbled into Uyuni and headed straight for the hotel to be horizontal. By the time we surfaced and got out into the town we realised… there aint much going on here. It really is a tiny town in the desert. We did spot a few fellow tourists, clearly also in town to participate in a tour of some kind, but other than a tasty wonton soup we had for dinner, there is not much to report.
That is until day 2 when we started our 3-day, Uyuni to San Pedro tour. Now this tour ladies and gents. Wow. If you need a sign to go to Bolivia, this is it. Spoiler alert but what an amazing 3 days filled with so much driving, so many breathtaking views, and some new friends made. Our tip – book directly through the tour company, not Getyourguide, you will be able to save some serious dinero. All in all we paid about £200 each which included private rooms and all meals. We went with On Experiences and can definitely recommend them.
With all of us piled into the tour office we were split into cars. 11 people, 2 cars, 1 guide and all the food we would need for the next 3 days. All backpacks safely secured on top, we were ready to go. Coincidentally, or definitely not, we happened to be in a car with the only other Brits in the group. So all of us, a bit too happy to finally have no language barrier for the first time in a while, soon became friends. Given there were only 5 in our car this meant we had Gustavo, our 24 year old guide, in our car. He lasted as DJ for 1 day until he was booted off by our new, very confident amiga, Helen.
Stop 1 was the train cemetery. Heavily featured on instagram. A cool stop for a few pics but then on to the main attraction. The salt flats, Salar de Uyuni. Massive open salt flats for as far as the eye can see. Around 11,000km2. Photos don’t do this place justice. Very, very cool. Gustavo soon proved himself as top photographer of the trip, hitting all the angles and even whipping out the props for the famous perspective pics. See below!
After way too many photos were taken, we headed to Incahausi. A small island in the middle of the flats, covered in thousands of meters high cacti. Now chasing the sunlight we headed to a nearby cave where we watched the sunset with a complementary glass (or two) of Bolivian red wine and the tastiest salted crisps we’ve had all trip. After a jam packed 8 hour day we were happy to clamber back into the car for a final journey to our humble hostel for the night. Thankfully we scored a private room, and headed straight to dinner to sink a few more glasses of wine. For good luck of course.
Day 2 we were off the salt flats and into the desert. A complete change of scenery, now surrounded by dunes, volcanos, lagunas, snow capped mountains and lots and lots of sand. Highlight of the day, on the foothills of Volcan Ollague, an alpaca sausage. Was not on our bucket list to try but it was the best £3.50 spent all tour.
Lunch was definitely unique in all the best ways. We spent it by a lake with a flamboyance of flamingoes, hundreds of beautiful birds meters away, completely unbothered by us being there. Staying on the animal theme, we drove through the desert seeing groups of wild vacunas for the first time and eventually stopped to see the Bolivian Viscacha (rabbits) in Potosi.
Completely exhausted from all the driving (not like we did any ourselves), we were very happy to arrive at our remote hotel near lake Colorada. The city life luxuries don’t exist out here and we were quickly informed that the electricity only comes on for 3 hours a day, best get those phones charged asap! Hot water did not exist so nice and stinky, covered in sand we cut our losses and headed for a quick meal of salchipapa and an early night was had. What felt like 5 minutes later we were woken up at 4am to make it to the hot springs for sunrise. A few quick pitstops at the geysers and we made it. Worth every bit of the freezing cold, ridiculously early wake up call. After 3 days crammed in the back of the car we were very happy to get in the springs and relax with the hundred other tour groups.
And just like that, we found ourselves at the Chile border saying goodbye to our new friends and off on the next adventure in the atacama desert.
Do the tour, spend the money, see the sights. Its worth it.
G&M
March 2026















Entry Twenty Four.
La Paz, Bolivia.
The highest city in the world! A whole c.3650m above sea level. That is about 3550m too high for our weak sea-level built bodies. Luckily we found a very lovely hotel, El Consulado, that only had 1 flight of stairs. After the 2 days of travel, combined with some altitude exhaustion, we fell asleep the second our heads hit the pillow.
The next day we found ourselves experiencing a historical moment in time. Unknown to us, a day prior, a Bolivian air force cargo plane crashed in the nearby town of El Alto, tragically killing over 20 people, and, in its possession – 423 million bolivianos (£46m equivalent!). Naturally of course, some of those banknotes just happened to go missing and in an effort to stop the spread of the stolen goods, the government implemented a temporary ban on all notes with a certain serial code. Enter us, two bozo tourists, unaware and simply withdrawing money from an ATM that suddenly no business in La Paz was willing to accept. Or so we thought, until a very kind lady selling Matt a fake £8 Patagonia beanie (thank you very much) was willing to take some off our hands.
Money issue sorted, we explored the Rosario portion of the city where many a fake Patagonia fleece are sold. None purchased (yet). We found a coffee shop that every other gringo in the city saw on tiktok (Cafe del Mundo) and moseyed around the streets. After a few quiet days acclimatising to the city, it was time for the birthday extravaganza to begin! By that we mean catching a 4 hour bus to Copacabana to stay on Lake Titicaca at a hotel we splurged on. 6 months in and we can confidently say we are familiar with a bus journey, this however even surprised us. About 2 hours in we were told to get off the bus, buy a boat ticket, and meet our bus on the other side of the lake. As we stood in the ticket line we watched our 40-seater bus be loaded onto an oversized raft and start to float across the water. Over the otherside, street empanada acquired and back on we hopped.
Now, if you’re ever in Copacabana and need a hotel, we can definitely recommend Las Olas. It’s like nothing we have experienced before. See photos for reference, but just think lake view, stained glass, tree house. Beautiful.
The morning of the 4th rolled around and one of us turned 27! Very spoiled, a surprise cake showed up at the door (well done Matt) so naturally we had some cake for breakfast and then headed out for a coffee. One thing about Copacobana is there are almost more dogs than people and whilst none of them look particularly skinny, we made sure their bellies were extra full that day. Kibble for everyone. The day was wrapped up at the local nice restaurant. The best part, it was a 2 minute walk from our hotel where we soon rolled back to and finished the day watching Harry Potter. The ideal way to spend a birthday in Georgia’s opinion.
Birthday trip over, we headed back to La Paz for a few more days of exploring. Highlights being the very expansive, very cheap cable cars that connect the city, which we took to the southern area of San Miguel. If you’re down that way we urge you to try Santo Ramen. An inconspicuous backyard restaurant where we had the best pork bao bun we’ve ever had and a very tasty portion of ramen to wash it down.
Now, to the (hopefully) final overnight bus we go! See you soon Uyuni.
G&M
March 2026









Entry Twenty Three.
Ilha Grande, Brasil.
It’s not the easiest, most convenient place to get to, but after a few days here we can say its worth it. Many routes are possible but our route of choice (largely price driven) was a 5am bus from Rio – Mangaratiba and then a 2 hour public ferry to the island. If you’re happy to give up some comforts for a couple of hours it’s a very easy way and will cost about £13 per person total. By 11am we were on the island and had an acai in hand.
A few days down by the water is what we needed, apparently so did the thousands of other tourists who had enjoyed the fruits of carnival. There’s a few places we ventured out to worth recommending. The first being Lopes Mendes beach. A short 15 minute water taxi for 100R (return) will take you to Praia do Pouso and then it’s a short 20 minute walk over the mountain to the beach. It’s worth the walk, also for the small monkey sightings on the way. Jordan advised it was previously voted the 7th best beach in the world. We agree it’s a very nice beach, the softest sand you will step on and warm water. Just be prepared to share with everyone else!
Another must do is walking into the national park (Parque Estadual da Ilha Grande). There’s beaches, walking trails, aqueducts, water pools (very cold) and waterfalls. It’s free and beautiful.
It’s been a while since we gave a food recommendation but given how many frita frangos we had it’s worth saying go to Padaria Emporio Objectiva. A local bakery right on the water front next to the port and it always had fresh baked goods. We tried a few on offer but we couldn’t stay away from the fried chicken balls. Shredded spiced chicken encapsulated in mashed potato and then fried in breadcrumbs. Delicioso.
The last night on the island was a very interesting one. At about 2pm whilst sitting at our favourite bakery it started to rain. Naively we planned to wait it out however 2 hours later when it hadn’t cleared we ventured home, not knowing that we were in for torrential rain for the next 16 hours. We learnt very quickly that the island is not set up for these big storms and sadly our cheap airbnb was not one of the lucky hotels that had a generator. In desperate need of some food and a cheeky bit of wifi we braved the storm and headed to the local pizza shop which seemed to be feeding the whole island that night. They even experienced electricity loss at one point.
That kicked off the travel days (plural!) from hell. Nothing bad happened but boy were they long. 48hours of travelling from the island to Bolivia. It really made us question whether saving the money to catch a flight from Sao Paolo was worth it. We both agreed the answer was no but now that we are no longer on that journey life is good again and we are in bloody Bolivia! Let’s go see what this is all about shall we.
G&M
February 2026








Entry Twenty Two.
Rio, Brazil.
The best part about you reading these blog posts is that we skip over the very boring, very long travel days that we do in the name of saving money. But just know, to land in Rio took us 24 hours, 2 planes, a 10 hour bus plus a taxi, with a slight minor bus crash sprinkled in there. But Rio we are in you!
Naturally I made Matt watch the underrated masterpiece that is the 2011 Rio film to get us in the spirit of all things Rio and Carnival. No blue macaws spotted yet but give it some time. What we have seen is a lot of very fun outfits, more sparkles than we ever saw in London that’s for sure. Maybe we should have prioritised learning some portuguese, oops, OBRIGADO!
Day 1 was spent exploring the famous areas of Copacabana and Ipanema. Did you know there are 439 Havaiana stores in those 2 suburbs alone! That is a lie, but it is how many it felt like we walked past. No thongs/flipflops acquired so far, tempted many a time but for 2 people already very tight on space and getting more sick of our backpacks by the day, we are trying to be conscious shoppers. An unknown concept for us but I promise we are trying. Something else we are conscious about, the abundance of cheap acai here that must be consumed. 1 per day minimum. From expensive tourist traps to local shops we are trying it all. Im sorry we dont have any specific recommendations, it was all good, our recommendation is try them all.
We of course walked through the beach night market in Copacobana and picked up the classic Brazil tops. Did you actually go to Brazil if you didn’t spend £4 on a top that screams tourist? Tempted by the bikinis and cangas but only a small artwork was added to the collection and then it was bed time for us.
The mission for day 2 was blocos (or blocos de rua). Being 3 gringos with no brazilian connections, we were relying on the internet for help, the 1st attempt was a fail, but determined to find one we got in an uber and headed out on another lead. On the way there we spotted a big moving crowd that caught our attention and abandoned the plan, jumped out of the uber and joined the spontaneous party. For those novices out there like us, a bloco is essentially a block party put on by locals and local businesses and its a big celebration, there’s street vendors, music, lots of glitter and not a whole lot of clothes. After a bit of a boogie there we noticed we were maybe slightly too old for the crowd of barely 20’s and continued on the initial mission to the other one. This bloco did however skip a generation in comparison and suddenly we were the youngest, but the music was a bit more our style so Caipirinha in hand we settled in.
Appetite sufficiently worked up we followed in the famous steps of Anthony Bourdain’s and found Galeto Sat’s, a New York-esk restaurant serving the ultimate boy feast, meat and carbs. With Jordan joining our party of 2 we were able to get a mini feast and try a bigger variety. Our favourite being the pork sausage.
A few days later it was time to head to the sambadrome. We couldn’t find a whole lot of information on this other than doors opened at 7:30pm. However, on our advice, there is no need to get there before 10pm and also buckle in for a long night. If you’re old (at heart) like us, this will go well past your bed time. Each samba school performs for about 70-80minutes, there is then a 30 minute gap between each school. And on our night there were 6 schools to perform. Quick maths = a very late night. Stay at least for a few schools, you will be in absolute awe of the talented dancers and the jaw dropping costumes and accompanying floats. Its hard to look away. Be prepared to hear the same song of choice on repeat for the full routine. No idea what they were saying but its very catchy and loud enough to sing along with no one hearing your awful attempt at Portuguese.
Other activities ticked off were sugar loaf mountain and christ the redeemer. Both very cool, we did get unfortunate weather but alas ticked them off. Another modern world wonder, thank you very much! Spoiler: that is the last of this trip.
Rio was a very cool city and very different from the other cities we’ve explored in SA so far. Our safety concerns were probably valid however thankfully nothing bad happened or witnessed, all belongings are safely still in our possession and no money scammed.
Time to get back on a beach we think.
Adeus!
G&M
February 2026






Entry Twenty One.
Cusco, Peru.
When we said long journey to Cusco, we mean LONG journey. 16 hours later and we finally arrived at the gateway to Machu Picchu. The lost Inca city.
To acclimatise to the altitude, we opted for a few days in Cusco to get things going. 3600m above sea level is no joke. Optional oxygen canisters available at all major hotel chains and coca sweets by the packet at every street vendor.
These 2 nights allowed us to scope out the best rated (via TikTok) souvenir shops as well as the best baby alpaca knitwear available. It’s clear that Cusco has many international visitors as the streets are lined with souvenirs shops. We may or may not have added to our souvenir collection… with much convincing and a few trips back to the store Georgia eventually made some upgrades to the wardrobe with a nice little alpaca wool number from a local artisan shop. We have successfully taken out our first small mortgage to pay for this with the monthly payments beginning shortly. She is very happy with it.
Lunch was a quick stop over at San Blas market for our holiday staple, ‘menu del dia’. 15 soles goes a long way over here. It’s a shame we couldn’t box the Lomo saltado con fettuccine Ala huancacina up because we could dive into that for the foreseeable. Somebody also needs to have a word about the portion sizes. For some very small people they know how to eat! Notable mentions also to Xapiri Ground and Three Monkeys Cafes. For a moment in Three Monkeys we thought we were back in Melbourne. Delightful stuff indeed. You can even choose the altitude in which your beans were harvested at… oooh.
That evening we met up with one of Matt’s old work friends, Jordan, who will be travelling with us for the next few weeks. After a change of scenery at a nice Indian Restaurant, an early night was needed as we were boarding the Inca Rail bright and early in the morning, headed to Aguas Calientes. Don’t be fooled into thinking the train will pick you up from Cusco and you’ll be on your merry way. You first have to get on a collectivo from Cusco for 2 hours to Ollantaytambo. At 5am in the morning it’s a tough old ride. Top tip, if you’re going back to Cusco don’t take any big bags with you. They aren’t kidding with additional charges. Eventually we arrived at the historic town of Ollantaytambo and boarded the famous Inca Rail. Budgets were stretched as we opted for the 360 carriage to make the most of the panoramic views. When we say 360, the reality was more like 90, but a nice experience nonetheless.
The train ride was full of entertainment. From cultural displays of Incan heritage, to an empty carriage reserved for a sing-a-long with local musicians. If you’re feeling brave you can even join in on the tambourine. I never knew Georgia had so much rhythm. Free snacks were also provided, and thankfully, the weather just about held off so we could soak in some of the beautiful natural landscapes. Despite the fact the train is expensive, its a lovely option of travel to a stunning part of the world. We had these grand plans of hiking the Inca Trail, but as it goes we just so happened to book during rainy season when the trail was closed. What a shame…
On that point, who invented the rainy season! Can someone turn the rain off please. The three of us nervously had our first dinner at the foothills of Machu Picchu praying to the weather gods to hold off the fog and rain during our non-refundable timeslot the following day. And what do you know, it worked! 12pm came around and there we were, the 3 of us with our guide, local legend Renee, seeing Machu Picchu from all angles with uninterrupted views. You don’t need us to tell you it’s worth it, it is a bloody wonder of the world after all!
With our sidequest complete and another wonder ticked off. For those keeping track thats 2 Modern Wonders of the world so far on this trip so far. We were back in Cusco and ready to see more of the city and get out into the sacred valley. The first day trip was an easy general Sacred Valley tour. 6 hours around the local towns and the main stops being the (salt flat name) and (other terraced place). For the price it was a nice day trip and good to get out and about. However, the following day we were off to rainbow mountain.
Now if youre like us and you have an instagram account im sure you have seen some very impressive photos of a beautiful pink, purple, green yellow, very rainbow style mountain. Not to say that doesn’t exist but just that it sadly wasn’t the mountain we saw. As previously mentioned, rainy season is in full swing, so we saw a greyer version with much more snow but saw it nonetheless.
After 4 very full, diverse weeks, we are heading out of peru and on to the next country. Its a bitter sweet moment fo us as Peru very quickly shot to the top of the highlight list. If youre looking for a country rich in culture, great food, great people and affordable to the average Brit/Aussie, Peru is your place. I imagine we will be back.
Let’s have some fun in Brazil now. CIAO
G&M
February 2026









Entry Twenty.
Arequipa, Peru
Stop 3 of 4 on our Peru hop journey lands us in the ‘white city’. Arequipa. First impressions and you can definitely tell the Spanish had their mitts all over this place. No denying it is a beautiful city worth a short visit on the long old journey from Lima to Cusco.
We had a few places on the hit list, first up being Santa Catalina Monastery, a small town in itself (20,000m2 worth of courtyards and cells) charging a hefty entry price of £11, but behind the walls lies the most photogenic monastery we’ve ever laid our eyes on. All that walking built up an appetite and on the back of a recommendation from a fellow hopster (peru hop companion, that is) we headed to Mercado San Camilo where you can find almost anything you could want from prepared food to household bits and bobs. What we were there for however, was a 10 soles chicharon sandwich. A fresh crunchy bread roll with fried pork belly, crackling/scratching, tomato and pickled red onion topped with your choice of sauce, of course we opted for mayonnaise.
Full bellies ended our first day rather early but day two had a more adventurous itinerary. By that of course we mean a very chill tour to the rather close Ruta Del Sillar with a short side quest to the Yanahuara scenic overlook and Quebrada de Culebrillas. When you arrive in Arequipa, particularly the main square (Plaza de Armas) you will be drowned in tour offers for the famous Colca Canyon. Whilst we were very tempted to see the impressively large Andean condor birds, after our recent overnight bus we weren’t keen on the early morning plus 4 hour journey there. So ruta del sillar it was, and all in all, for £15, it was a nice day out. The best way to describe it is poor man’s Petra but even so, very impressive. Another bonus was we had our first try of queso helado. Direct translation being cheese icecream, but thankfully, contains no cheese. Think creamy cinnamon vanilla icecream, similar to horchata if you’re familiar. Tasty stuff. More of that please!
To round out the short city stop we tried out a free walking tour. Our eccentric guide took us on a bit of a wild goose chase through the city but showed us some of the hidden gems. This was where we also got our local food recommendation of Picanteria la Mundial. A local Peruvian restaurant filled with locals. Not quite local prices but nice nonetheless.
On the note of food if youre after a nice coffee, head to Oso cafe. We became regulars by the end of our visit because once we find good coffee we dont branch out.
Off on another long bus journey to cusco we go!
G&M
February 2026






Entry nineteen.
Huacachina, Peru.
For all you thrill seekers out there, fancy sandboarding down some dunes in the Peruvian desert knowing full well you’re uninsured to do so (to our mums reading this, this is a joke!). Simply pay your 64 soles and don’t ask questions. Please note your dune buggy driver most certainly won’t get you to sign a waiver before throwing you and your waxed up board off the top of the dunes. The instructions of how to do so might as well be in Spanish too. Just remember, abierto those legs and see you at the bottom.
Situated just outside of Ica in Peru, is the small village of Huacachina. The desert oasis, as it is colloquially known, is a popular tourist hotspot for exploring the nearby 21,000 square kilometres of uninterrupted sand dunes within the Desierto de Ica. For 3.60 soles you can even go on a little adventure yourself, and just. keep. walking.
Huacachina is a great stopover for a night or two. It’s not exactly a great secret (an extended thanks once again to our tik tok algorithm) and there is an overwhelming amount of us ultimate tourists that descend on this sleepy village every day! But for a change of scenery, and maybe some new adventures, we decided to trust our Peru Hop guide and give it a go.
It is worth noting however if you are to stay at one of the hostels, maybe pack some earplugs. It can get a little rowdy in the evening. Is this us finally accepting that our party hostel days are over… one of us is pushing 30 after all!
We did consider blowing the budget and staying at the adults only Senoma Hotel nearby. But recognising our position as two unemployed and homeless 20(ish!) year olds, we thought the Wild Rover Hostel would be a great value for money option. All in all, not bad.
Next up we’re taking our first overnight bus with Peru Hop and making our way to Arequipa, the white city. Supposedly the prettiest city in Peru (ooh la la). There was a short stop over at the Nazca Lines. We’re glad it was only short too. Cool to see for about 5 minutes but lets keep it moving. Controversial, but in our opinion, overrated, and the numpty’s built a bloody highway right through the middle of the lizard. Iykyk.
Coming off the back of the best overnight buses to and from Huaraz. Thank you Civa. We were mildly disappointed with the Peru Hop bus for the 11 hour journey to Arequipa. Temporary discomfort though. 5am soon enough rolled around and we found ourselves dropped off in the dark, close enough to our hotel which we do recommend. Hotel Qema. Tucked nicely out of the way on the outskirts of the city, still in a walkable spot and large hotel grounds with plenty of green spaces for the undiagnosed ADHD traveller to get his outside time in.
We’ve got 4 nights here with a couple of things on the to do list. Updates to come.
Bye!
G&M
January 2026






Entry Eighteen.
Paracas, Peru.
Sadly our time in the gastronomic capital of South America (Lima) had come to an end. This did however make way for us to board the ultimate tourist gringo bus tour that we have been so patiently waiting for. Peru Hop. Found by Matt, the world’s laziest holiday researcher, buried deep in a blog post was mention of a bus hop company across some of Peru’s most popular destinations… all with English speaking guides. £150 gets you from Lima to Cusco, transport, guided tours and a festival style wristband that is recognised for its 10% discounts at the most expensive tourist spots. Is there some secret allegiance going on here between the Peruvian tourism magnates?
We boarded the bus early, and with our host Jossy, headed south towards our first stop, Paracas. We were initially treated to a stop at Mirasur for, and we quote, the freshest baked bread in Peru. 5/10, wouldn’t bother with the olive bread. It was here we formed our first friendship of the tour, Peter from Keswick. By far one of the nicest people we’ve met on the trip so far. Might be something to do with him being a family doctor for 40 years. Don’t they take an oath to be upholding citizens and all round good humans? Something like that.
Paracas was a real treat. Small coastal town with popular tourist spots such as Islas Ballestas (the poor mans Galapagos) and the nearby National Reserve. Peru Hop made things super easy to book tours through them, or gain further information and tips (unbiased tips) on places to stay, eat, how to stay safe etc. If you’re looking to do a similar trip across Peru. We’d highly recommend checking out Peru Hop. Please note this is an unpaid advertisement. However if they want to pay us we wouldn’t decline…
Landing in Paracas we ventured off to our accommodation and settled in for a few hours. True to our travelling style, we googled, instagrammed, and tik tok’ed the best places in town, saved them to our Google maps and ventured off to explore.
The following morning we booked onto the Islas Ballestas tour to catch a glimpse of some wildlife. We finally got to see some Penguins. Humboldt is the official name, not humble. Forgive us, our Spanish listening skills aren’t quite up to scratch yet.
We also got a chance to explore the National Reserve outside of the planned tour. We hired a scooter from Playa Roja Tours in town. The least hassle we’ve ever had renting anything. Turn up, pay your 100 soles, cash only of course. No ID, no licence, no waiver. Pick your helmet and crack on.
Would highly recommend the National Reserve too, just not a Saturday, during school holidays. Too busy. Not for us.
2 nights is plenty in Paracas.
Onwards to Huacachina. The desert oasis…
G&M
February, 2026.





Entry seventeen.
Lima & Huaraz, Peru.
Next stop, Peru. This place has been highly anticipated on our trip due to the amount of praise it’s received online. Lets just say, so far, it’s certainly lived up to its reputation. Arriving into Lima via the swanky new Jorge Chavev airport, things were looking good.
ChatGPT did us a big service by recommending Barranco as the place for us to locate ourselves. Very trendy, very upmarket, very us (in our humble opinion). The streets are lined with independent cafes, bakeries and restaurants where the value for money makes our dwindling budget feel abundant. Recommendations so far – Demo and Pan Sal Aire. Those Demo pastries, go on then.
Just wandering around admiring the architecture and soaking up the atmosphere is special. It also wouldn’t be a trip to Barranco without the obligatory sigh on the Bridge of Sighs. We actually don’t know if this is a thing, seems plausible though.
Nestled within the colonial architecture of the streets are many concept stores. Very easy to miss but you’ll be sad if you do. Matt didn’t even complain too much being dragged around to each of them, they were that good. If you head to PUNA Shop Gallery on Jr. Colina you’ll find a few good ones back to back. Handmade everything, largely centred around women’s fashion.
We also ventured up to Miraflores to the Larcomar Shopping Centr e before stopping off for a smash burger at Burgerboy Larco. (Somebody here loves a smash burger, what can we say). Miraflores is much more metropolitan and offers a nice change of pace from Barranco.
Like in all of South America, Ubers provide a cheap and convenient way to travel around the city. So making the most of this, we first visited the Indian Market to sample the local souvenirs. There are some talented craftspeople in this country. We are also two suckers for an affordable, unique handmade art piece to fill the walls of that house we don’t own (yet!). I think we’re (Matt) gonna need to make some more space in the old suitcases. Next on the agenda was the historic centre. We soon found out we are local celebrities! Well only if you ask the 10 year old girl who asked for a photo, language barrier prevented questioning, but keep an eye out for that photo, I’m sure it’s floating around on facebook somewhere.
After a few days, we boarded the Excluciva overnight bus to Huaraz. Civa are running a bloody good service, let us tell you. Those overnight buses with the 180deg reclining (and massaging) seats… take our money. We might be backpacking, but you have to gift yourself the small luxuries in life right? 10hours later and an elevation gain of 3000m we arrived in the city of Huaraz, the gateway to the Huascaran National Park.
The only obvious downside to the overnight bus service is the early arrival time, where not many places are open. Thankfully we found a local spot, El Tio Gui. It appeared to be a popular spot with the local Transit Police who piled in for the early morning Lomo Saltado. Two (huge) meals and two coffees will set you back a whopping £4. Total. We were also their first google review, a side hustle (unpaid) that Georgia takes great pride in. Local guide level 6, thanks for asking!
Our plan for Huaraz was to make the most of the nearby National Park. However, we firstly needed to acclimatise to the altitude, especially as two foreigners from very low lying areas of the world. Look, we know our fitness has slid slightly since being here but typically we can walk up the stairs no problem, add a couple thousand meters altitude and we are completely undone. Thank goodness our Airbnb has a lift.
We knew that Laguna 69 was the popular route but given walking down the street was winding us, we opted for an easier first tour. Lake Paron. £10 later and we found ourselves on the next 9 hour tour to the stunning blue water lake. Not without a bit of phone theft drama on the bus first of course. Arriving to the lake we were pleasantly surprised to know the google images were not in fact edited and the water really is that blue.
Post tour we were hit with some intestinal issues but a rest day to recover and we were back on the Mony Tours bus, this time heading to Pastoruri glacier. We of course got our customary photo with some fancy dress Llamas and the comically large cacti on the journey there. 40 minutes later and fighting for our life in 5000m altitude we made it to the glacier. We can admit its not the biggest most impressive glacier you might find on gods green earth but all things considered it was £8 well spent. We got our pics, even some with a peruvian family we made friends with, and then walked the 40 minute journey back through a hail storm. Sweets exchanged with our new friends and we travelled safely back to Huaraz, very content with our 2 tours chosen in Huaraz.
4 days in Huaraz was enough for us to dip our toes in. Would definitely recommend this place, not only for the tours but also soaking up the local atmosphere by taking a leisurely walk through the vibrant streets lined with vendors of all kinds.
Time to board the Civa back to Lima and get back to sea level (please).
Ciao for now!
G&M
January, 2026.








Entry sixteen.
Galapagos Islands, Ecuador.
2026 has arrived. First stop, Ecuador. Sights firmly set on the Galapagos Islands.
To get there, we had a short layover in Guayaquil. It came to our attention in the lead up to arriving in this Ecuadorian city that it’s actually named one of the most dangerous cities in the world due to recent violence in the area… eek. Sadly as much as we wish we could blend in, we are very much gringos and there’s no hiding that.
Our first run in with this reputation was at 11pm upon arrival to our hotel. The welcoming entrance of our boutique hotel being the 6m high fortress walls with barbed wire and electric fence. Naively we got out of the uber ready to collect our bags, quickly warned by our uber driver this was not a smart idea until the armed gates of the hotel were open and ready for us. Lets just say, fears were confirmed. With us well and truly scaredy cats, we opted to enjoy the grounds and facilities of the lovely Luxva Boutique Hotel… as the only guests. Safety aside, we gotta eat, so of course we have some recommendations. Pastrami’s New York Sandwiches and Jeta Smash Burgers. Jeta, 10/10. What a spot. Of course it is guarded by a security guard and behind what we imagine is a bullet proof door. You might think you’re in Berlin but this is very much Guayaquil after all. And best of all, very much accessible within the safety of an uber.
Finally it was time to fly out to the first island on our island hopping, budget friendly, Galapagos Tour, San Cristobal. We learnt the hard way that the $20 transit cards but be purchased prior to boarding. Dont be like us silly tourists running through the airport as the gates are closing. Only thing left to do was fill out the quarantine cards no one inspected, pose for a PR photoshoot in the passport control line with an officer and pay the $200 fee. We were officially in the galapagos islands.
It was a first for both of us being able to walk straight from the airport to our hotel. And the weather, blimey. She’s hot. She’s also stinky, courtesy of the abundant sea lions, quickly nicknamed s’lions, which are quite literally everywhere. This is very much their island. Prime beach spots, public benches and footpaths are forfeited to the friendly (sometimes), stinky pups of the ocean.
San Cristobel was a pleasant surprise for both of us. We were expecting bustling streets filled with American tourists and souvenir shops. What we actually found was a small, quiet, local beach town which, yes, does cater to tourists on the main road, however, is very much lived in, and enjoyed by locals. Our hostel receptionist quickly pointed out the local spots with the $5 meals and the best beaches to head to. If you need a cheap eat, head to Lucky’s, our favourite local place. Lunch is served from 12pm-3pm. For a whole $5 you will be given a fresh juice, a bowl of soup big enough to be a main, and a plate of your choice of protein. Dinner is much the same, minus the soup. Do us proud and request the mayonaisa. An Ecuadorian delicacy of mayonnaise blended with basil. I think we almost finished a whole bottle over dinner one night. Of course follow this meal up at cafe san cristobal with one of their homemade waffle cone ice creams for $3.
As far as beaches go you really are spoiled in the Galapagos. Playa mann is a classic. There are almost more sea lions than people. Plenty of shade and space for everyone. Before sunset however, head over to Punta Carola. A 20 minute walk away but the perfect viewing spot for sunset. And again, plenty of s’lions.
Having officially acquired the obligatory Galapagos souvenir, a cap with some blue boobies on it, it was time to move on to Santa Cruz. All those expectations we had that I mentioned previously, well that’s exactly what Santa Cruz is. Clearly the more popular, better invested, larger island. Immediately less s’lions but made up by our first marine iguana sighting. With more people frequenting this town there was an abundance of tours to do. Sadly we find comfort in pools of water that we can touch the bottom of. So no deep sea diving for us. Nonetheless our favourite activities included:
Tortuga bay. This had to go first. One of us is from Aus and can still say its arguably one of the best beaches in the world. The softest sand imaginable. With plenty of animals to look at including our first shark of the islands. Worth every bit of the $20 ferry to get there. Keep in mind the last ferry goes at 4:30 (really 5pm because island time) and if you dont get on this you have to walk the hour + back to town.
Las grietas. A big crack in the earth filled with sea water. Its lovely and cold and regulated by tour guides so that its not overcrowded and still enjoyable. Take a $1 water taxi over and then follow the signs for 10 minutes. You will eventually meet some local guides who you are required to pay $10 to for them to guide you through the area. It feels scammy but we have realised that is just how things are done here, 9 times out of 10 they actually are official. We followed the advice to hire snorkels from town for $5 and freaked ourselves out by looking down into the abyss. Each to their own.
El Chato Ranch. What is a trip to the Galapagos if you don’t see the giant tortoises? You can of course do this at the Charles Darwin research centre but we were quickly convinced by another tourist to make the journey to El Chato ranch to see them in the wild. Google review will tell you to catch a $60 taxi to the ranch. However, a local will tell you to catch the $1 public bus to the closest town and then walk the easy 2km. Which of course we did. However. Proceed with caution. The “2km walk” does take much longer than expected (60 minutes). We also ran into a very territorial pack of dogs blocking the path and had to find solitude in a friendly taxi driver on his way down to pick up some ranch goers. We did, however, see plenty of tortoises roaming around. They are as the name suggests, giant. $10pp later and you will get a tour of the ranch including a visit to the lava tunnels. Money well spent.
As far as food goes, Santa Cruz, being a more touristy island, you can quickly find yourself spending $15+ on a simple meal. OR you can head to calle de los kioscos, where you will find cheap eats for $5.99 at about 10 different restaurants. Our top pick however is Empanadas Galapagueñas Milenita at the back of Mercado municipal. The freshest and largest empanadas for under $3 each.
And that’s the islands from our perspective. Such an abundance of wildlife and beautiful beaches. What a bloody cool experience worth every penny.
Wildlife encountered;
- Pelicans
- Sea Lions
- Marine Iguanas
- Blue Footed Boobies
- Giant Tortoises
- Baby Sharks
- Darwin’s Finches
- Sally Lightfoot Crabs
- Sea Turtles
- Flightless Cormorant
G&M
January, 2026.














Entry fifteen.
Medellin, Colombia (pt.3, NYE).
New years. Arguably the most overrated holiday in our opinion but this was a good one.
In reality this whole year has been a good one. Like everyone we had our highs and lows, but we are so lucky. So lucky to have the highs and lows we did. What we experienced this year together and as individuals is more than what we could have ever wished for. We grew a lot. Those frontal lobes were well and truly in the refining process. We took a big leap of faith leaving everything behind to travel the world together. With a rather ambitious budget and not a whole lot of planning. But as we keep reminding ourselves, there will always be jobs and responsibilities waiting for us when we chose to be adults again, we may as well enjoy this luxury.
We ended the year very much in our own style. We had a delicious pizza for lunch, relaxed at the hotel watching Emily in Paris/Rome, readied ourselves, went to Yacky Chan for dinner and then perched up on the side of a street party with some takeaway cocktails for a few hours. Yapping, sipping, and people watching with very loud Latin live music to accompany us. A short stroll back to our lovely new accom to watch the fireworks from our room and end it all off with a singalong to early 2000s music videos. That’s 2025 done.
New Year’s Day was kicked off with a brunch and then a cinema visit to Cine Colombia for The housemaid. We started this year happy, together, on holiday. What more could we ask for.
It’s a big year incoming, can’t wait to experience it all.
G&M
December, 2025.
Entry fourteen.
Medellin, Colombia (pt.2)
In all honesty, since the last update there hasn’t been a whole lot to write about. Our plan of settling down in Medellín for a month, in hindsight, was overly naive on our behalf. Whilst we have certainly ticked the box of slowing down over the holiday period, the pace turned glacial which eventually led to extreme boredom and an itch to move on. So here’s what we’ve been up to.
We’ve ticked off the majority of the tripadvisor recommended tourist spots. Fighting our way through the streets of fake designer goods that occupy a large majority of the main city centre around Botero Park. A comuna 13 guided tour (highly recommended) with a funny, oversharing local. Jardin botanico de Medellin. All the thrift stores known to TikTok (none worth mentioning). The very modern, Greek mythology themed, SB Acuario bowling alley. Many a fancy shopping mall accompanied by a few visits to Cine Colombia (a bargain cinema with English movies). And of course, the tourist destinations of Laureles and El Poblado. All that occupied us enough up to Christmas.
Christmas was an interesting one for us this year. We did what we could to make it feel Christmassy, make shift Christmas tree and our new pet, Rudy, did what they could. At the end of the day however, we realised Christmas can’t feel truly Christmassy when you’re in the most foreign place possible, away from all family and friends. A cheeky spout of gastro (or food poisoning? Looking at you, frisby chicken) starting Christmas Eve doesn’t help either. With one of us (Georgia) rendered useless for 5 days, Matt rallied and prepared the best Christmas Day lunch possible with our very limited home comforts. Fun fact, gravy is nonexistent in Colombia. Many kisses to the chef for his efforts. A few festive movies later and that was Christmas 2025. After all it’s just a day and as always the homesickness passed and the trip goes on.
We did however need a change. Sometimes on these travels we come to the agreement that sticking to a tight budget isn’t worth it if we are unhappy, and we knew that our Airbnb, whilst it had served its purpose, had done its time and we made the executive decision to move. El Poblado is popular for a reason. Super touristy, yes, but after all we are tourists and we wanted to start the new year right. Specifically in the nice, comfortable, clean hotel rooms of Nakua.
Before we move into the new year and our new experience in El Poblado, let’s wrap up our Medellín recommendations. Andes burger, you have our heart. If you’re in need of a greasy, cheesy smash burger, this is the place. Mekong do great pan-Asian food but note, the curries are spicy, even when they say they aren’t. Naan provided the curry fix we needed, and it turns out their name is very fitting, best naan bread possibly ever. As far as cafes go Pergamino gets a lot of hype and whilst it might be slightly overhyped, it is still tasty. If you are looking for something more lowkey, Animateria Libros y cafe is a super cute library cafe, very small English book section but it’s cosy and quiet.
2025 has been very kind to us and we can’t wait for you to come along on our 2026 adventures. There’s so much to look forward to.
Feliz ano nuevo.
G&M
December, 2025.












Entry thirteen.
Guatape, Colombia.
To break up the month’s stay in Medellin, we had a short stopover for a few nights in the town of Guatape. Locally referred to ‘the most colourful city in the world’. A bumpy and scenic 2-hour bus ride from central Medellin is this lakeside town, vibrant in its charm and visual appearance. Made popular because of the nearby Piedra el Penol rock that is a dramatic change in the otherwise rolling landscape.
After negotiating a cheap tuk tuk ride to what we found out to be the bottom of the hill, you will be welcomed by a 15 minute hike up to the base of the rock. Once you’ve weaved through the masses of tourists and restaurant owners you begin the cool 700-step incline to reach the breathtaking views of the surrounding lakes of Guatape. Definitely worth the physical exertion and £7 entrance fee. Don’t be ashamed to take frequent breaks along the way. Not only to let the 3,000 other people pass, but to take in the views as you ascend. Nice.
It’s clear that there is some wealth in the area. Maybe the private helicopter rides and the abandoned lakeside mansion of a well-known business man who used to operate his lucrative business in the country. No longer with us, but with a long-lasting legacy that put the country on the map. Plata o pomo.
Guatape is perfect for a short trip if you want a break from city living. There was a serious upgrade in the quality of the Airbnb, but sadly el comida was still a little lacking. Sorry, but in our opinion, Colombian food is pretty mid, we mean no offence we promise. True to form however because of the proud foodies that we are, we do have a few recommendations.
New York Pizza, as good as a pizza you’ll get in these ends. 18Once, lovely little Italian in a quiet spot out of the busy main square. Big up Jeff the Airbnb host for the recommendation. Casa de Ciclistas, a HUGE menu but with some interesting global options thrown into the mix. Sourdough soup bowl, Spatzel, Shakshuka, go on then.
Overall, a sweet spot. Would recommend.
We’ve got a few piccies, go check em out in the gallery.
Con gusto.
G&M
December, 2025.



Entry twelve.
Medellin, Colombia (pt.1)
You will all be pleased to hear we finally completed our first ever overnight bus. Cartagena to Medellin, 700km. I think we can officially claim the ‘backpacker’ title now? All in all, no complaints. It left when it was supposed to, of course it didn’t arrive on time, don’t be ridiculous. But hey, what’s the difference between 13 and 17 hours really?
Fair warning, you’ll need to buckle in for our Colombian adventure here in Medellin. It’s not for the faint hearted. We have decided to hunker down over the festive period and take up a cheap airbnb in the green suburbs of Laureles. Think the greenery of Mexico city, specifically Roma Norte/Condesa, but sadly without the abundance of Michelin culinary delights. But that’s what our small and mighty kitchen is for anyway.
First few days in Medellin and its clear this place is a big city with plenty to offer. Whilst its not quite our cup of tea just yet we are determined to make it work, save some money, get in the Christmas spirit and soak up the experience.
One thing we have noticed about the Colombian Christmas is that they love a light up feature. Everywhere and anywhere, huge decorated lights in the shape of all types of inanimate objects. On the to-do list, a visit to Parque del Rio to see them in all their glory. However, sadly there is a noticeable lack of Christmas cards and Christmas music.
You will be proud to read that our Christmas shopping is officially completed. Not an easy task in a country that unfortunately for us, lacks almost all of our favourite things and brands. The gigantic westfield-esk mall, El Tosado, in Poblado is a must go if you need a shopping fix. And as far as food shopping for Christmas day goes, we have found the perfect supermarket which we expect will cost us an arm and a leg BUT make Christmas away from home feel just as special. Carulla.
More to come im sure but not a whole lot to report on just yet. Right, we are off to Guatape to get out of our city funk and get back to a little adventure.
G&M.
December, 2025.
Entry eleven.
Cartagena, Colombia.
No better way to start a 5 hour return journey through the jungle than during a torrential downpour, right? Back in Cartagena, cartels once again avoided, car returned, subway acquired, we were ready to see what the ‘Heroic City’ had to offer.
Arriving into the artsy quarter of Getsemani we were welcomed with the most vibrant city so far. Streets are lined with graffiti art and street vendors, fruit and lemonade during the day, salchipapa and arepas by night. It’s a real plethora of smells and sounds, some lovely, and some not so much. I think some attention should be paid to the sewerage system to begin with…
Sadly, we may have experienced our first hotel catfish. Not ideal given our 11 day stint in the city (more to come on this later). But as always it was time to get out and get our bearings. From our experience, Cartagena has 2 main offers in terms of tourism. The artsy, vibrant area of Getsemani and the walled city, which encompasses the old historic area. Both beautiful in their own right and unsurprisingly busy. Getsemani the slightly cheaper, local area of the two, tourism largely generated by local entrepreneurs of Plaza de La Trinidad and ‘Cocktail street’ (Calle 27 & 28). Both are certainly worth a visit if you’re looking for a more authentic Cartagena experience. The street food is well priced, well portioned and offers something different to the traditional sit down restaurant experience.
It was clear that Cartagena is a city desperately trying to boost tourism. Evidenced by the money being poured into specific areas and the reliance of cruise-based tourism. Enter the welcomed arrival of the giant Four Seasons Hotel, currently under construction, which has funded road improvements around the building and the temporary closure and eventual upgrade of Centenario Park. Somebody has their finger on the pulse and has predicted some significant developments to come from this city in years to come. The first weekend we spent there was heavily occupied by the Cartagena Ironman 70.3 that was being hosted in the city. It was good to see the influx of tourism to support local business. It is also the build up to Christmas. We were lucky enough to see the unexpectedly opulent light switch on and digital display in ‘slave square’. There are certainly pockets of wealth here. It just doesn’t seem to be appropriately distributed across the city. Is this representative of how the Colombian government operates…
The city is rich with colonial history. The Spanish influence is clearly evident and the locals have maintained this heritage and culture well. To better understand the history, we highly recommend doing a free walking tour to understand the city from a locals perspective, tips of £5-10 are welcomed. We booked online via GuruWalk. Thanks Daniella.
In addition to the architecture, the culinary scene is pretty good. There is a wide selection on offer, in multiple price points. Some of our favourites were Nia Bakery, Vive Restaurant Bar Colombiano, Colombitalia (Arepas), Tahini Kebab (Lebanese) and anywhere that sells Italian gelato (it’s become a daily tradition for us).
Outside of the main city, there are a few attractions to visit. We’d recommend a visit to the San Felipe Fort. Another one if you’re looking for some western comforts, or need some more underpants, would be the Mallplaza.
After 7 nights, our hotel in Getsemani had served us well, but we were in need of some luxury. We made the executive decision to therefore spend the remainder of our time in Cartagena down in the gringo district of Bocagrande and found ourselves indulging in much needed some 5* r&r. Sue us.
December, 2025.






Entry ten.
Minca, Colombia.
Pack your fans guys, this place is hot.
We arrived early into Cartagena, ready to embark on an adventurous 5 hour drive north to a small village called Minca. Tucked high into the lush Sierra Nevada mountains of Northern Colombia. The scenery didn’t disappoint.
After a quick costume change and re-fuel (thanks Subway) we set off for the journey in the newly hired mighty Renault Captur. We might have to change my (Matt’s) opinion on French cars after this (Georgia doesn’t care for cars). A fine performance indeed, considering there was some off-roading required.
The trip was smooth sailing. We didn’t get stopped by the police, or cartel (unsure nowadays which is which). We successfully navigated the tolls enroute, all with no gringo tax. Tip – cash only. Even stopping off to catch a glimpse of the Shakira statue in Barraquilla. Hmm.
The most eventual part of the journey was the latter half. Navigating Colombian road user etiquette. Trying to slow down enough to spot the flamingoes (spotted). Being awe struck by the poverty of Tasajeras and surrounding villages within the province of Magdalena. Arriving into Santa Marta in the dark. This place really is the wild west. Then the climb up to Minca and then our accommodation, Colores De Le Sierra. Our advice if you want to do a similar journey, get a car, and a fairly large one at that.
Aside from Acetenango, this was our real first rural adventure. To add to the sense of adventure, within our accommodation, no English was spoken. Which made ordering food and general conversation a real adventure. In reality, we were at the mercy of the chef who we would say what meat we wanted, then he would just cook us up whatever he felt like, and then, well, just charge us whatever he wanted 4 days later. But what we can say is that man’s Pan de Pollo is nothing short of sensational. Considering this was another 30 minutes outside of Minca, up narrow and steep jungle roads and then a completely unpaved section, they did a pretty good job keeping us fed and watered. Naturally this was all made better by the fact we ate dinner every night in the company of no other guests and a pack of 6 dogs.
We spent a day hanging around the accommodation. Enjoying the serenity and peacefulness of the surroundings. We weren’t brave enough to try the natural pool, mainly because it was bloody freezing. However the company of the house dogs provided us with the entertainment we needed when the patchy wifi, and sometimes electricity dropped out. Shoutout to Roxie, Socks Fernando, Armada (named by us), and the others. Secretly I’m sure we both would have the adoption papers signed for a minimum of one four-legged friend we’ve befriended on the trip so far.
Our other adventures during our time here consisted of the humungous Tayrona National Park. It was here we had one of our most treasured memories of the trip so far. Horse riding through the Colombian jungle. One of us was even brave enough to do it topless. I wonder who? Apart from the fact the guide was nowhere to be seen, and spent most of the time on his phone, as complete novices we navigated our trusty steeds up and down the rocky terrain and through some incredible parts of the jungle. Best £12 spent so far. We later found out part of the national park is still home to some indigenous tribes. It really felt like an untouched paradise. Certainly worth a visit but wear your hiking shoes.
The other days we spent exploring Minca, mixing with the other backpacking gringos and happily sipping our flat whites. We made some time to visit one of the waterfalls advertised around this area. Oido del Mundo. Thankfully it was one of the least touristy. Or maybe that was because of the torrential downpour we encountered on the 45 minute walk to it…
An unexpected treat for us was stumbling across a nearby coffee house where we sought refuge from the rain. It was a rare moment of peace and tranquility, enjoying some horrific hot cocoa (sorry!) from the indigenous family who occupied this small area of the jungle.
All in all, the 4 days we spent in Minca was enough for us. It was an amazing adventure, and certainly worth the visit from the more populous areas further south in Colombia. But as the budget needs to be stretched, and car rentals are expensive, it’s time for us to head back to Cartagena where we will be based for a week or so. Time to soak up some Caribbean influence and get stuck into the street food we have missed from our time in Mexico City.
Ciao! or spelt Chao if you’re from the ol’ Espanol (which apparently these lot also use because of the influx of Italian migrants in the 19th and 20th century).
G&M.
December, 2025.






Entry nine.
Antigua, Guatemala.
After the quickest Panajachel to Antigua shuttle journey ever recorded in history, we arrived back just in time for the final few hours of the Festival de Flores (Flower Festival). If Antigua wasn’t pretty enough, the entire city comes alive with flowers, arts and crafts, decorations and murals to make for a special time of year to celebrate. There is a delicate balance of traditional culture and modern tourism here, which makes for a very interesting place to visit. For us however this has allowed cuisines from around the world. Big shoutout to Arbol (Japanese), Casa Verona (Italian), Delhi6 (Indian).
Our reason for returning to Antigua was to complete the surprisingly popular Acatenango hike. It seems to be a right of passage for visitors to undertake this monstrous ascent. Not only are you nearing 4,000m in altitude, it’s just a constant uphill. Little relief for the poor legs. It certainly gave us a challenge.
We booked through Brothers Expeditions, which was recommended due to the popularity of our initial choice of Tropicana Tours. This very unassuming local tour company, combined with a great group of people made for an enjoyable overnight tour. We would highly recommend them, just ensure you go at your own pace and don’t try to keep up with the guides, or the very fit Europeans who are seemingly unaffected by the altitude! Lucky buggers. One guide even slipped into conversation that he completes the hike sometimes as much as four times a week. “Easy peasy” were the words he used to describe it.
Once at basecamp, we had uninterrupted views of the nearby active Volcano, Fuego. There is of course the optional 4 hour additional hike to get up close and personal with Fuego, but we cut our losses, were glad to be alive, and watched the volcano from the comfort of our cosy 12 person tin shack. Once darkness fell it made for some spectacular viewing. A real bucket list moment of sleeping on the side of a mountain next to an active volcano watching it erupt every few minutes. Definitely, definitely worth it.
Sadly (kind of) we were unable to complete the 4am sunrise hike to the summit of the inactive volcano of Acetenango due to bad weather, we’re talking fog so bad you can barely see anything and torrential rain, so we got a lie-in before heading back down to El Soledad which wasn’t all that bad. All in all, an incredible and challenging experience that comes highly recommended.
A special recognition has to go out to the local guides, sherpas and shop workers all the way up the mountain that make it remotely possible for all us touristas. Whilst we were struggling to carry out measly 5-8kg bags, we were being overtaken constantly by these workers carrying multiple bags, cargo loads and even 2m long planks of wood to the top. Hats off to them.
Top tips for the climb;
- They’re not joking about the drop in temperature up there. Take some warm clothes.
- If you’re a light sleeper, an eye mask and some ear plugs will do you wonders. There’s a good chance as least one of the 12 people in those tiny shacks will be a snorer.
- Wet wipes will be your best friend. Especially if you suffer from an unexpected spout of diarrhoea in the middle of the night 😦
- Walking sticks, if you’re not an experienced climber they are super handy and make it a whole lot easier. At times you might not think they are worth it but especially on the very steep way down your knees will thank you.
- If you’re worried about the altitude, you can buy medication in Antigua beforehand. I’m going to assume ours worked as the headaches and nausea were limited!
Once back down in Antigua, we had a few days to relax and enjoy the sights. Ultimate tourists incoming. Naturally we headed straight to the Arco de Santa Catalina, which in all honestly we felt a bit catfished by. The influencers of instagram have all taken it upon themselves to collectively turn the saturation right up on every photo. Regardless, it is conveniently right next to Convento de la Merced which is worth the 35 quetzales entry. Follow the steps up to the rooftop and enjoy some uninterrupted views of the city, mountains and volcanoes.
We also took some time and money to feel a bit more like ourselves again. A hair cut each later and almost every piece of clothing in our suitcases washed. We are ready to keep going (once our legs recover and we can walk again!)
G&M
November, 2025.









Entry eight.
Lake Atitlan, Guatemala.
New country time. A short hop over from Cancun (thanks Volaris) we have landed in GUATEMALA. We skipped Guatemala city for now and headed straight for Antigua. What a beauty. Many similarities to Oaxaca, mainly in the colonial architecture. Shoutout to the most beautiful McDonalds we’ve stepped foot in and the second hand clothing Paca’s at the back of the Mercado Centro. We scored some absolute bargains and made some significant wardrobe upgrades.
The plan was an overnight layover in Antigua before heading onto Lake Atitlan for a few days of lakeside living. The shuttle from Antigua to Panajachel provided endless entertainment from healing crystal balls to US politics. For Matt this was a welcomed distraction to his travel sickness, which was made even worse by the windy mountain roads we encountered along the way. Ew. Despite a few minor hiccups in the form of falling luggage to a couple finding out they were on the wrong shuttle going in the opposite direction… we made it to Panajachel and boarded a local ferry (Lancha) to Santa Cruz. Our stop was the hotly anticipated and very popular (thanks instagram) Free Cerveza. Where they do in fact give out free beer between the hours of 5 and 7 before a “family dinner”.
Noteworthy mention to all Lake Atitlan boat driver’s whose abilities to store loose luggage on top of a boat with no straps or protection is something of a masterpiece. A well crafted skill we must say. Didn’t stop us from checking the location of our airtags every 30 seconds to make sure the luggage hadn’t fallen off.
Free Cerveza is certainly worth the mention. Great vibes. Lovely people. Nice food and uninterrupted lakeside view of Volcan Atitlan. Definitely worth booking 3 months in advance. Our 3 night stay in one of their private Casita’s was a delight. Facilities also included hot running water in the showers. What a TREAT.
A few days around the lake was plentiful to explore the neighbouring towns of Santa Cruz, San Marcos and San Juan. All very different but with plenty of gift shops to lure even the most money conscious of tourist.
We’ve spent enough Quetzals here, so it’s back to Antigua!
Ciao.
November, 2025.










Entry seven.
Tulum, Mexico.
Enter Tulum. Home of ancient Mayan ruins, doof doof beach clubs, cenotes, a 100ft waterslide and the world’s cheapest pizza (don’t fact check this). Emily’s Pizza, thanks for everything.
We chose to stay in the town of Tulum itself, away from the beach club riff raff. We were nestled in a nice quiet area just off Avenue La Selva. This presented a nice opportunity to see the ‘real’ Tulum, away from the resorts and main tourist hotspots. Sadly, the town is still quite undeveloped particularly in local areas. It’s certainly not what you see on the old internet.
This did however make for a rather adventurous bike ride to the newly opened Soriana Supermarket on the outskirts of town, along some precarious looking roads. True to form though, we made some four-legged friends along the way. Unashamedly, we are suckers for a good supermarket. Soriana is something else. The pastries need some work, but the experience was a “treat”. You really can get everything, from spare car tyres to Italian cheeses. The walk-in alcohol fridge isn’t something you see everyday either. We also nearly got a bargain of the century with the cheapest Tupperware drinks bottle the world has ever seen. A story for another day.
In total we had 6 nights in Tulum. We feel this was enough time. A few notable mentions are to Roa who let us hire the tennis court in the Unidad Deportiva de Tulum, Story Horse cafe for inspiring us to freeze brewed coffee and put this into iced coffee to prevent dilution (absolute wizards), Emily’s Pizza (again), and the staff at Taqueria Don Temo for reminding us of the delightful street food we had in Mexico City.
We eventually plucked up the courage to ponder down to Tulum beach and sample the so-called white sand beaches. We settled on a beach club attached to a hotel called Delek. The pictures looked good online. But honestly, the real driving force was the price. Free. If we say so ourselves, it was also by far the best one we saw. Relaxed vibes, pretty decent food, and the Gringo tax wasn’t as heavy as expected.
A trip to the Yucatan Peninsula wouldn’t be complete without a trip to some Mayan Ruins. You really are spoiled for choice, and there’s even one of the new 7 wonders of the world thrown in for good measure. Chichen Itza is certainly worth a visit. Our experience was unique in some ways, but to share this with the other 7,000 people that day didn’t feel as special. We hired a car and drove from Tulum. Pretty straight forward few hours drive until… you’re about 30 minutes out and get flagged down by some fella selling unofficial official tickets on the side of the street. Only in Mexico. In his defence, they did get us through the door smoothly. You can even negotiate your own ticket package, which is really all made up but that’s the fun of it. Our chosen extras were advanced entry, the closest parking (of course) which was sold as an exclusive benefit, however very far from that, and also a buffet lunch, something they love to throw in as a sweetener. Sold.
To make use of the hire car, we also took a trip to Xel-Ha water park. The ultimate Gringo playground. An aquatic theme park and ecotourism, nothing we have ever experienced but a great concept. Our tip, have a big breaky, go for the light ticket package (no food included) and swim your heart out knowing you can get much cheaper and probably better food on your way home. We may have been lucky going in off season and a slightly overcast day but the park was busy enough it wasn’t eerie, but empty enough that you could actually enjoy yourself and try everything without wasting time in lines. Some key activities offered include the previously mentioned 100ft waterslide, swimmable cenotes, cliff jumping, zip lines and a lazy river. The lazy river was much more enjoyable before we discovered the sting rays that are allowed to roam freely below you. Maybe its the Australian trauma of Steve Irwin’s death but this didn’t sit right with us. On your way out you can catch a dolphin show which the more wealthy clientele will gladly pay for, we however watched from the bushes. We feel slightly uneasy with this aspect of the park. Seems very unnatural.
All in all, there are clearly very opposing sides to Tulum. A coastal town that rapidly grew in popularity due to tourism and has clearly tried to (rightfully so) capitalise on the popularity. However, pace has come at the expense of sufficient infrastructure to accommodate everyone. The Tulum we experienced on the slight outskirts of town don’t benefit from all the luxuries that the Tulum of Instagram showcases. A working sewerage system, paved roads, appropriate rubbish disposal are not afforded to those locals who keep the town humming all year round. Knowing this and seeing it for ourselves, it feels naive to highlight all the experiences that we as tourists were able to experience, without acknowledging the small glimpse we saw of real life in this town.
The whole point of this trip is to see the world but also, gain some perspective. Mexico in general has certainly opened our eyes. More of this please.
Guatemala next. Bienvenidos.
G&M
November, 2025.






Entry six.
Puerto Escondido, Mexico.
A short drive over from the serenity of Mazunte lies the port town of Puerto Escondido. Our expectations, a larger and more developed Mazunte. Given they share the same delightful landscapes of Oaxaca’s Pacific Coast we thought this wasn’t a poor assumption. Maybe don’t believe everything you read on trip advisor. Oh and uber, yeah, doesn’t work here.
Tip #1 – download Didi if you want to use taxi’s to get around, this place is big. But start the request well before you actually want to leave and expect them to cancel on you at the last minute. This will indeed leave you stranded in the baking heat on Playa Zicaleta where you can’t actually swim because of the MONSTROUS waves.. so take comfortable walking shoes!
Speaking of Playa Zicaleta, what’s going on with the half built hotel complexes littering the sea front and the smattering of ‘brits abroad’ lining the streets, who are we to talk, but still! Apart from a swift visit to Pacifica Radio which is very mexico city-esk and worth a visit if you’re out that way, we’d give this a miss (for now).
Some other good beach options would be Playa Coral, if you don’t mind sharing with 250 others, or Playa Bacocho if you don’t mind being amongst the padel players and instagram influencers. Lovely sunset though. Can recommend for a cheeky photo. Our highlight though was the Cine En La Playa, Instagram – Cine En La Playa, which shows Mexican films (English subtitles too don’t worry) every Wednesday evening on a lovely stretch of Playa Bacocho just outside of Club Bacocho. All for free. Snacks available to purchase there or bring your own.
All that being said, Puerto Escondido wasn’t for us, but the chance to do some washing, being close to an international airport and getting through a few more episodes of Lessons in Chemistry sweetened the deal. We can’t expect to love every place we visit and ultimately, we’re happy we’ve been able to see it for ourselves. Thanks Apple TV for the free 3 months.
Next and final stop for Mexico, the Yucatan Penisula on Mexico’s Caribbean coastline. Spice it up you know. Tulum to be precise, because whilst we may be ultimate tourists, we aren’t prepared to mix with the spring breakers and resort dwellers of Cancun.
G&M
November, 2025.



Entry five.
Mazunte, Mexico.
Seeking some adventure in your life? Think you can handle 80% humidity combined with temperatures over 30 degrees? Well this little slice of hippie paradise might just be right up your street. Note, shoes and clothing are optional.
Thankfully, we (Georgia) were smart and booked an Airbnb with a pool, because my goodness you’re gonna need it. The only downside was forgetting to read the small print where it mentioned clothing is… optional. Enter a well-travelled, eccentric Danish lady. The self-titled Rainmaker. She proceeded to tell us her life story, including all of the men she’s “dated” around the world, enough to “fill a book” in her words, all whilst fully naked in the pool. As you do.
Mazunte is a real gem. True to form, and as expected based on our experience of Mexico so far, the food was exceptional. Standouts: Icaro, Umami, The Fish Burrito, Falafel El Loco, Alessandro. If you’re feeling adventurous, may we introduce you to MFC (Mazunte Fried Chicken) and the unexpected surprise of spaghetti as a 20 peso side dish. Perfect appetiser ahead of a sunset walk to Punta Cometa too. Which on a side note was a little disappointing.
In total, we spent five nights here, and we easily could have done another five. It was perfect to let time stand still a little. Relax in our little haven. Even smuggle dogs into the resort to enjoy a pool day with us (we miss you Lola, hope you’re doing well). We did have a go at the beach. A short and sweet excursion. But, the sand was too hot and the waves were too strong (1x pair of sunglasses lost). Plus we both loathe paying for any form of shade. However, can recommend Pina Coladas from the 24/7 happy hour on the beach.
Our opinion, this small beachside town felt like it was stuck in a strange juxtaposition. On one hand we had superfast starlink wifi in the resort, some of the most amazing food we have had on the trip so far, and some rather delightful 5* resorts popping up. But there is a simplicity to the place. Simplicity in the form of no official mains water connection, only a dubious looking water tanker that rocks up when they want during the week. Always a tricky moment after the morning rituals when the toilet doesn’t flush. A very inconsistent rubbish disposal system that results in locals burning their rubbish. Combined with some interesting noises and smells at night.
But we see the appeal. The locals we spoke to and any expats who moved here all share the same hunger for a simpler way of living. We met a chap called Felix, an ex-music producer from France who relocated 17 years ago. No bank account, no formal employment. Just an old Nokia phone, 2 dogs and a wealthy friend who lets him stay in the resort for free. The guy is living, L-I-V-I-N.
G&M
November, 2025.
Entry four.
Oaxaca, Mexico.
Note to self, published journey times for Mexican public transport are a little… generous. You arrive when you arrive, end of.
Full of inspiration on the back of watching the Netflix series; Street Food: Latin America, we arrived in Oaxaca seeking the best Tlayundas around. Naturally our first stop was Mercado 20 de Noviembre, us and all the other tourists who had the same idea. However, it didn’t disappoint. I mean, a large toasted corn tortilla, covered with asiento (pork lard), refried beans, quesillo (Oaxaca cheese), and accompanied by an assortment of toppings to appease any dietary requirement. Go on then.
Any Oaxacan will tell you that a day in Oaxaca is not complete without a Chocomio. So what did we do… every night? It’s a must.
If you’re looking for a little more adventure away from the more tourist focused spots of Oaxaca, the markets of Centro de Abasto offer all the excitement of a Moroccan souk coupled with the smells of an abattoir. Prepare to get completely lost, and be faced with some rather precarious food hygiene practices. Don’t ask too many questions, just eat.
We eventually found what we were looking for, thanks to the large Netflix logo signs around the market. Memelas Dona Vale. We knew we were in the right place when we saw the legend herself, Dona Vale, sitting at the counter. Don’t shy away from their famous morita sauce, it’s spicy but manageable. Strawberry milkshakes are on offer for those who need it.
Oaxaca central in all its glory is quite small so it was time to play ultimate tourists for the day and sign up for a guided tour. In the spirit of getting bang for our buck, we signed up for the most jam packed itinerary, at the lowest cost, with the best reviews. So 8am the next day we were loaded on the shuttle bus with 12 other ultimate tourists and our eccentric host Andrea. By 10am the mezcal was open and disco ball switched on. This would explain the good reviews. First couple of stops included a 2500 year old big tree in Tula followed by a rug factory, where the average employee age was… questionably low. We minded our business though. Nice rugs too.
Then came the part we were all there for, Hierve el Agua. Petrified waterfalls created thousands of years ago. Atop the mountain are pools of water, lukewarm waters at best but relaxing and beautiful nonetheless.
Next up we visited the magical town of Mitla. San Pablo Villa de Mitla to give it its full and decorated title. And yes magical town is an official title from the Mexican government for towns of specific cultural, historical or natural importance. Ooh. Mitla has some amazing architecture from the Zaptoec civilisation. The greca mosaics were very indulgent.
To finish up, a buffet style dinner off the highway, sadly not highlighting the best of Oaxacan cooking but after a full day we’d take anything. To wash this all down the Mexican way, we were off to a mezcal tasting class. Well officially it was to visit a mezcal factory and learn about the process of making, but given it wrapped up by tasting 15 different types of mezcal, it feels more appropriate. Our consensus – pure mezcal isnt really for us, especially those that were 50% alcohol, but we can certainly appreciate a crema de Mezcal.
Right, that’s enough city for now, off to the beach for some R&R and probably a bit of sunburn.
¡Buen dia!
G&M
October, 2025.





Entry three.
CDMX, Mexico.
Sadly, after a very enjoyable 11 days our time in CDMX came to an end, but not after squeezing in a few more highlights of the trip.
Palacio Postal was a real treat to wander around. Getting lost in the beauty from the italian architect, Adamo Boari. That staircase, cor’ blimey.
If you’re in need of a good coffee, head to La laguna in Doctores, Cuauthemoc. A repurposed industrial warehouse, now home to cafe and collective workspace for creatives and artists alike. You feel like you’re part of a very exclusive cool club, we did at least.
Cafe de Nadie, again this is not a unique recommendation but we can see why it’s become popular. A unique menu served to you in an old CD case and CDMX inspired cocktails to back it up.
To cover the sports front, mandatory attendance at a Lucha Libre match was ticked off the list. An unforgettable experience to say the least. A little too much lycra for our liking, but the most entertainment you could squeeze out of a tenner. Also rolled in was some F1 action at the Hermanos Rodriguez circuit. Our third F1 event of the season, someone would think we are doing it on purpose.
But taking top spot for our entire CDMX trip was a Mexican cooking class on a Trajinera (colourful, flat-bottomed boat) on the canals of Xochimilco. Our host, Claudia and her family welcomed us aboard and accustomed us to the traditions of her ancestors and indulged us in a hands-on cooking experience, and indulge we did. Who knew a plantain could double as a tortilla.
We must say, CDMX has been a real treat. 5/5 would recommend. Come hungry. Recommendations of our favourites are sat ready waiting for you.
But alas the show must go on, and ahead of us laid an 8 hour adventure aboard an ADO GL (executive edition i’ll have you know) bus to Oaxaca.
¡Mucha gracias!
G&M
October, 2025.







Entry one.
CDMX, Mexico.
The first 24 hours has been nothing short of eventful. Landing into CDMX airport at 2am wasn’t our smartest idea but alas the journey started. One lost pair of glasses, or opticos as they’re otherwise known as, retrieved and delirium kicking in, we headed to the metro. A seemingly easy task for 2 kids familiar with city life, thank you Melbourne and London, however, this turned out to be our first mistake. We learnt very quickly that cash is crucial, and don’t let the TikTok’s fool you, USD is not good enough, get those Pesos out before leaving the airport.
Whilst we waited out 3pm for our Airbnb check-in, we headed to Panadería Rosetta. This isn’t a niche recommendation by any means, but we can confirm it lives up to the hype online, 4.5/5. Its best selling factor in our opinion, being that it opened pre 8am. Another thing we learnt, this is a rarity, CDMX is a slow riser in the mornings.
With 8 more hours to kill and two heavy backpacks to lug around, we found ourselves a nice park to settle in, Rio De Janiero Park, would also recommend. To set the scene, dogs running everywhere, locals on their early morning walk and two comically obvious tourists people watching, soaking in the fact we did in fact actually quit our jobs and this is our life now. To pass the time, we basked in the sunlight and, naturally, invented a new card game. Suits you. Instructions to follow…
Post check in – the real exploring started. We walked without any plan, just how we like it. First official stop was Mercato de Artesanias, oddly stepping into the market the pace of life slowed down, this little echo chamber that exists within the city centre, removed from the chaos of the streets. We got to browsing. Eventually all that browsing did work up quite an appetite, enter the conveniently placed street food market out the back. We also quickly learnt that all those swanky Mexican restaurants in London are heavily westernised, and we had no idea what to order. We were also off grid at this point so the convenience of google translate wasn’t an option. So, we put our faith in a very kind local and let him pick our meal. A success. A double success given that our unaccustomed stomachs could handle it.
That’s when jet lag reared its head and it was time for us to be horizontal. Sadly we made no attempt to adjust to local time. Lucky we have 7 months to do that.
Tips;
- Get cash before you leave the airport (local currency ideally)
- Learn very basic Spanish, its more rewarding to immerse yourself but also English is not as widely spoken here, especially if you’re heading off the beaten path.
- Use Uber or Didi, not street taxis
- Download Dazz cam (if you’re into the film camera aesthetic, okay 35mm) we use the GRD and FQS settings mostly. Note, GDR is part of Dazz Pro (which obviously you have to pay for). Alternatively, you can be tight like us and screenshot after taking the image. (Hey, we’re unemployed, what do you expect…)
- AI is your friend, use it, let it do the leg work for you.
- Take all your belongings before getting off the plane
¡Adios!
G&M
October, 2025.






