Cartagena, Colombia. 

No better way to start a 5 hour return journey through the jungle than during a torrential downpour, right? Back in Cartagena, cartels once again avoided, car returned, subway acquired, we were ready to see what the ‘Heroic City’ had to offer. 

Arriving into the artsy quarter of Getsemani we were welcomed with the most vibrant city so far. Streets are lined with graffiti art and street vendors, fruit and lemonade during the day, salchipapa and arepas by night. It’s a real plethora of smells and sounds, some lovely, and some not so much. I think some attention should be paid to the sewerage system to begin with…

Sadly, we may have experienced our first hotel catfish. Not ideal given our 11 day stint in the city (more to come on this later). But as always it was time to get out and get our bearings. From our experience, Cartagena has 2 main offers in terms of tourism. The artsy, vibrant area of Getsemani and the walled city, which encompasses the old historic area. Both beautiful in their own right and unsurprisingly busy. Getsemani the slightly cheaper, local area of the two, tourism largely generated by local entrepreneurs of Plaza de La Trinidad and ‘Cocktail street’ (Calle 27 & 28). Both are certainly worth a visit if you’re looking for a more authentic Cartagena experience. The street food is well priced, well portioned and offers something different to the traditional sit down restaurant experience. 

It was clear that Cartagena is a city desperately trying to boost tourism. Evidenced by the money being poured into specific areas and the reliance of cruise-based tourism. Enter the welcomed arrival of the giant Four Seasons Hotel, currently under construction, which has funded road improvements around the building and the temporary closure and eventual upgrade of Centenario Park. Somebody has their finger on the pulse and has predicted some significant developments to come from this city in years to come. The first weekend we spent there was heavily occupied by the Cartagena Ironman 70.3 that was being hosted in the city. It was good to see the influx of tourism to support local business. It is also the build up to Christmas. We were lucky enough to see the unexpectedly opulent light switch on and digital display in ‘slave square’. There are certainly pockets of wealth here. It just doesn’t seem to be appropriately distributed across the city. Is this representative of how the Colombian government operates…

The city is rich with colonial history. The Spanish influence is clearly evident and the locals have maintained this heritage and culture well. To better understand the history, we highly recommend doing a free walking tour to understand the city from a locals perspective, tips of £5-10 are welcomed. We booked online via GuruWalk. Thanks Daniella. 

In addition to the architecture, the culinary scene is pretty good. There is a wide selection on offer, in multiple price points. Some of our favourites were Nia Bakery, Vive Restaurant Bar Colombiano, Colombitalia (Arepas), Tahini Kebab (Lebanese) and anywhere that sells Italian gelato (it’s become a daily tradition for us). 

Outside of the main city, there are a few attractions to visit. We’d recommend a visit to the San Felipe Fort. Another one if you’re looking for some western comforts, or need some more underpants, would be the Mallplaza. 

After 7 nights, our hotel in Getsemani had served us well, but we were in need of some luxury. We made the executive decision to therefore spend the remainder of our time in Cartagena down in the gringo district of Bocagrande and found ourselves indulging in much needed some 5* r&r. Sue us. . 

Minca, Colombia. 

Pack your fans guys, this place is hot. 

We arrived early into Cartagena, ready to embark on an adventurous 5 hour drive north to a small village called Minca. Tucked high into the lush Sierra Nevada mountains of Northern Colombia. The scenery didn’t disappoint. 

After a quick costume change and re-fuel (thanks Subway) we set off for the journey in the newly hired mighty Renault Captur. We might have to change my (Matt’s) opinion on French cars after this (Georgia doesn’t care for cars). A fine performance indeed, considering there was some off-roading required. 

The trip was smooth sailing. We didn’t get stopped by the police, or cartel (unsure nowadays which is which). We successfully navigated the tolls enroute, all with no gringo tax. Tip – cash only. Even stopping off to catch a glimpse of the Shakira statue in Barraquilla. Hmm. 

The most eventual part of the journey was the latter half. Navigating Colombian road user etiquette. Trying to slow down enough to spot the flamingoes (spotted). Being awe struck by the poverty of Tasajeras and surrounding villages within the province of Magdalena. Arriving into Santa Marta in the dark. This place really is the wild west. Then the climb up to Minca and then our accommodation, Colores De Le Sierra. Our advice if you want to do a similar journey, get a car, and a fairly large one at that. 

Aside from Acetenango, this was our real first rural adventure. To add to the sense of adventure, within our accommodation, no English was spoken. Which made ordering food and general conversation a real adventure. In reality, we were at the mercy of the chef who we would say what meat we wanted, then he would just cook us up whatever he felt like, and then, well, just charge us whatever he wanted 4 days later. But what we can say is that man’s Pan de Pollo is nothing short of sensational. Considering this was another 30 minutes outside of Minca, up narrow and steep jungle roads and then a completely unpaved section, they did a pretty good job keeping us fed and watered. Naturally this was all made better by the fact we ate dinner every night in the company of no other guests and a pack of 6 dogs.  

We spent a day hanging around the accommodation. Enjoying the serenity and peacefulness of the surroundings. We weren’t brave enough to try the natural pool, mainly because it was bloody freezing. However the company of the house dogs provided us with the entertainment we needed when the patchy wifi, and sometimes electricity dropped out. Shoutout to Roxie, Socks Fernando, Armada (named by us), and the others. Secretly I’m sure we both would have the adoption papers signed for a minimum of one four-legged friend we’ve befriended on the trip so far. 

Our other adventures during our time here consisted of the humungous Tayrona National Park. It was here we had one of our most treasured memories of the trip so far. Horse riding through the Colombian jungle. One of us was even brave enough to do it topless. I wonder who? Apart from the fact the guide was nowhere to be seen, and spent most of the time on his phone, as complete novices we navigated our trusty steeds up and down the rocky terrain and through some incredible parts of the jungle. Best £12 spent so far. We later found out part of the national park is still home to some indigenous tribes. It really felt like an untouched paradise. Certainly worth a visit but wear your hiking shoes. 

The other days we spent exploring Minca, mixing with the other backpacking gringos and happily sipping our flat whites. We made some time to visit one of the waterfalls advertised around this area. Oido del Mundo. Thankfully it was one of the least touristy. Or maybe that was because of the torrential downpour we encountered on the 45 minute walk to it…

An unexpected treat for us was stumbling across a nearby coffee house where we sought refuge from the rain. It was a rare moment of peace and tranquility, enjoying some horrific hot cocoa (sorry!) from the indigenous family who occupied this small area of the jungle. 

All in all, the 4 days we spent in Minca was enough for us. It was an amazing adventure, and certainly worth the visit from the more populous areas further south in Colombia. But as the budget needs to be stretched, and car rentals are expensive, it’s time for us to head back to Cartagena where we will be based for a week or so. Time to soak up some Caribbean influence and get stuck into the street food we have missed from our time in Mexico City. 

Ciao! or spelt Chao if you’re from the ol’ Espanol (which apparently these lot also use because of the influx of Italian migrants in the 19th and 20th century). 

G&M. 

Antigua, Guatemala. 

After the quickest Panajachel to Antigua shuttle journey ever recorded in history, we arrived back just in time for the final few hours of the Festival de Flores (Flower Festival). If Antigua wasn’t pretty enough, the entire city comes alive with flowers, arts and crafts, decorations and murals to make for a special time of year to celebrate. There is a delicate balance of traditional culture and modern tourism here, which makes for a very interesting place to visit. For us however this has allowed cuisines from around the world. Big shoutout to Arbol (Japanese), Casa Verona (Italian), Delhi6 (Indian). 

Our reason for returning to Antigua was to complete the surprisingly popular Acatenango hike. It seems to be a right of passage for visitors to undertake this monstrous ascent. Not only are you nearing 4,000m in altitude, it’s just a constant uphill. Little relief for the poor legs. It certainly gave us a challenge. 

We booked through Brothers Expeditions, which was recommended due to the popularity of our initial choice of Tropicana Tours. This very unassuming local tour company, combined with a great group of people made for an enjoyable overnight tour. We would highly recommend them, just ensure you go at your own pace and don’t try to keep up with the guides, or the very fit Europeans who are seemingly unaffected by the altitude! Lucky buggers. One guide even slipped into conversation that he completes the hike sometimes as much as four times a week. “Easy peasy” were the words he used to describe it. 

Once at basecamp, we had uninterrupted views of the nearby active Volcano, Fuego. There is of course the optional 4 hour additional hike to get up close and personal with Fuego, but we cut our losses, were glad to be alive, and watched the volcano from the comfort of our cosy 12 person tin shack. Once darkness fell it made for some spectacular viewing. A real bucket list moment of sleeping on the side of a mountain next to an active volcano watching it erupt every few minutes. Definitely, definitely worth it. 

Sadly (kind of) we were unable to complete the 4am sunrise hike to the summit of the inactive volcano of Acetenango due to bad weather, we’re talking fog so bad you can barely see anything and torrential rain, so we got a lie-in before heading back down to El Soledad which wasn’t all that bad. All in all, an incredible and challenging experience that comes highly recommended. 

A special recognition has to go out to the local guides, sherpas and shop workers all the way up the mountain that make it remotely possible for all us touristas. Whilst we were struggling to carry out measly 5-8kg bags, we were being overtaken constantly by these workers carrying multiple bags, cargo loads and even 2m long planks of wood to the top. Hats off to them. 

Top tips for the climb; 

• They’re not joking about the drop in temperature up there. Take some warm clothes. 
• If you’re a light sleeper, an eye mask and some ear plugs will do you wonders. There’s a good chance as least one of the 12 people in those tiny shacks will be a snorer. 
• Wet wipes will be your best friend. Especially if you suffer from an unexpected spout of diarrhoea in the middle of the night 😦 
• Walking sticks, if you’re not an experienced climber they are super handy and make it a whole lot easier. At times you might not think they are worth it but especially on the very steep way down your knees will thank you. 
• If you’re worried about the altitude, you can buy medication in Antigua beforehand. I’m going to assume ours worked as the headaches and nausea were limited!

Once back down in Antigua, we had a few days to relax and enjoy the sights. Ultimate tourists incoming. Naturally we headed straight to the Arco de Santa Catalina, which in all honestly we felt a bit catfished by. The influencers of instagram have all taken it upon themselves to collectively turn the saturation right up on every photo. Regardless, it is conveniently right next to Convento de la Merced which is worth the 35 quetzales entry. Follow the steps up to the rooftop and enjoy some uninterrupted views of the city, mountains and volcanoes.  

We also took some time and money to feel a bit more like ourselves again. A hair cut each later and almost every piece of clothing in our suitcases washed. We are ready to keep going (once our legs recover and we can walk again!) 

G&M  

Lake Atitlan, Guatemala. 

New country time. A short hop over from Cancun (thanks Volaris) we have landed in GUATEMALA. We skipped Guatemala city for now and headed straight for Antigua. What a beauty. Many similarities to Oaxaca, mainly in the colonial architecture. Shoutout to the most beautiful McDonalds we’ve stepped foot in and the second hand clothing Paca’s at the back of the Mercado Centro. We scored some absolute bargains and made some significant wardrobe upgrades. 

The plan was an overnight layover in Antigua before heading onto Lake Atitlan for a few days of lakeside living. The shuttle from Antigua to Panajachel provided endless entertainment from healing crystal balls to US politics. For Matt this was a welcomed distraction to his travel sickness, which was made even worse by the windy mountain roads we encountered along the way. Ew. Despite a few minor hiccups in the form of falling luggage to a couple finding out they were on the wrong shuttle going in the opposite direction… we made it to Panajachel and boarded a local ferry (Lancha) to Santa Cruz. Our stop was the hotly anticipated and very popular (thanks instagram) Free Cerveza. Where they do in fact give out free beer between the hours of 5 and 7 before a “family dinner”. 

Noteworthy mention to all Lake Atitlan boat driver’s whose abilities to store loose luggage on top of a boat with no straps or protection is something of a masterpiece. A well crafted skill we must say. Didn’t stop us from checking the location of our airtags every 30 seconds to make sure the luggage hadn’t fallen off. 

Free Cerveza is certainly worth the mention. Great vibes. Lovely people. Nice food and uninterrupted lakeside view of Volcan Atitlan. Definitely worth booking 3 months in advance. Our 3 night stay in one of their private Casita’s was a delight. Facilities also included hot running water in the showers. What a TREAT. 

A few days around the lake was plentiful to explore the neighbouring towns of Santa Cruz, San Marcos and San Juan. All very different but with plenty of gift shops to lure even the most money conscious of tourist. 

We’ve spent enough Quetzals here, so it’s back to Antigua! 

Ciao. 

Tulum, Mexico. 

Enter Tulum. Home of ancient Mayan ruins, doof doof beach clubs, cenotes, a 100ft waterslide and the world’s cheapest pizza (don’t fact check this). Emily’s Pizza, thanks for everything. 

We chose to stay in the town of Tulum itself, away from the beach club riff raff. We were nestled in a nice quiet area just off Avenue La Selva. This presented a nice opportunity to see the ‘real’ Tulum, away from the resorts and main tourist hotspots. Sadly, the town is still quite undeveloped particularly in local areas. It’s certainly not what you see on the old internet. 

This did however make for a rather adventurous bike ride to the newly opened Soriana Supermarket on the outskirts of town, along some precarious looking roads. True to form though, we made some four-legged friends along the way. Unashamedly, we are suckers for a good supermarket. Soriana is something else. The pastries need some work, but the experience was a “treat”. You really can get everything, from spare car tyres to Italian cheeses. The walk-in alcohol fridge isn’t something you see everyday either. We also nearly got a bargain of the century with the cheapest Tupperware drinks bottle the world has ever seen. A story for another day. 

In total we had 6 nights in Tulum. We feel this was enough time. A few notable mentions are to Roa who let us hire the tennis court in the Unidad Deportiva de Tulum, Story Horse cafe for inspiring us to freeze brewed coffee and put this into iced coffee to prevent dilution (absolute wizards), Emily’s Pizza (again), and the staff at Taqueria Don Temo for reminding us of the delightful street food we had in Mexico City. 

We eventually plucked up the courage to ponder down to Tulum beach and sample the so-called white sand beaches. We settled on a beach club attached to a hotel called Delek. The pictures looked good online. But honestly, the real driving force was the price. Free. If we say so ourselves, it was also by far the best one we saw. Relaxed vibes, pretty decent food, and the Gringo tax wasn’t as heavy as expected.

A trip to the Yucatan Peninsula wouldn’t be complete without a trip to some Mayan Ruins. You really are spoiled for choice, and there’s even one of the new 7 wonders of the world thrown in for good measure. Chichen Itza is certainly worth a visit. Our experience was unique in some ways, but to share this with the other 7,000 people that day didn’t feel as special. We hired a car and drove from Tulum. Pretty straight forward few hours drive until… you’re about 30 minutes out and get flagged down by some fella selling unofficial official tickets on the side of the street. Only in Mexico. In his defence, they did get us through the door smoothly.  You can even negotiate your own ticket package, which is really all made up but that’s the fun of it. Our chosen extras were advanced entry, the closest parking (of course) which was sold as an exclusive benefit, however very far from that, and also a buffet lunch, something they love to throw in as a sweetener. Sold. 

To make use of the hire car, we also took a trip to Xel-Ha water park. The ultimate Gringo playground. An aquatic theme park and ecotourism, nothing we have ever experienced but a great concept. Our tip, have a big breaky, go for the light ticket package (no food included) and swim your heart out knowing you can get much cheaper and probably better food on your way home. We may have been lucky going in off season and a slightly overcast day but the park was busy enough it wasn’t eerie, but empty enough that you could actually enjoy yourself and try everything without wasting time in lines. Some key activities offered include the previously mentioned 100ft waterslide, swimmable cenotes, cliff jumping, zip lines and a lazy river. The lazy river was much more enjoyable before we discovered the sting rays that are allowed to roam freely below you. Maybe its the Australian trauma of Steve Irwin’s death but this didn’t sit right with us. On your way out you can catch a dolphin show which the more wealthy clientele will gladly pay for, we however watched from the bushes. We feel slightly uneasy with this aspect of the park. Seems very unnatural. 

All in all, there are clearly very opposing sides to Tulum. A coastal town that rapidly grew in popularity due to tourism and has clearly tried to (rightfully so) capitalise on the popularity. However, pace has come at the expense of sufficient infrastructure to accommodate everyone. The Tulum we experienced on the slight outskirts of town don’t benefit from all the luxuries that the Tulum of Instagram showcases. A working sewerage system, paved roads, appropriate rubbish disposal are not afforded to those locals who keep the town humming all year round. Knowing this and seeing it for ourselves, it feels naive to highlight all the experiences that we as tourists were able to experience, without acknowledging the small glimpse we saw of real life in this town. 

The whole point of this trip is to see the world but also, gain some perspective. Mexico in general has certainly opened our eyes. More of this please. 

Guatemala next. Bienvenidos.

G&M 

Puerto Escondido, Mexico. 

A short drive over from the serenity of Mazunte lies the port town of Puerto Escondido. Our expectations, a larger and more developed Mazunte. Given they share the same delightful landscapes of Oaxaca’s Pacific Coast we thought this wasn’t a poor assumption. Maybe don’t believe everything you read on trip advisor. Oh and uber, yeah, doesn’t work here. 

Tip #1 – download Didi if you want to use taxi’s to get around, this place is big. But start the request well before you actually want to leave and expect them to cancel on you at the last minute. This will indeed leave you stranded in the baking heat on Playa Zicaleta where you can’t actually swim because of the MONSTROUS waves.. so take comfortable walking shoes! 

Speaking of Playa Zicaleta, what’s going on with the half built hotel complexes littering the sea front and the smattering of ‘brits abroad’ lining the streets, who are we to talk, but still! Apart from a swift visit to Pacifica Radio which is very mexico city-esk and worth a visit if you’re out that way, we’d give this a miss (for now). 

Some other good beach options would be Playa Coral, if you don’t mind sharing with 250 others, or Playa Bacocho if you don’t mind being amongst the padel players and instagram influencers. Lovely sunset though. Can recommend for a cheeky photo. Our highlight though was the Cine En La Playa, Instagram – Cine En La Playa, which shows Mexican films (English subtitles too don’t worry) every Wednesday evening on a lovely stretch of Playa Bacocho just outside of Club Bacocho. All for free. Snacks available to purchase there or bring your own. 

All that being said, Puerto Escondido wasn’t for us, but the chance to do some washing, being close to an international airport and getting through a few more episodes of Lessons in Chemistry sweetened the deal. We can’t expect to love every place we visit and ultimately, we’re happy we’ve been able to see it for ourselves. Thanks Apple TV for the free 3 months. 

Next and final stop for Mexico, the Yucatan Penisula on Mexico’s Caribbean coastline. Spice it up you know. Tulum to be precise, because whilst we may be ultimate tourists, we aren’t prepared to mix with the spring breakers and resort dwellers of Cancun. 

G&M 

Mazunte, Mexico. 

Seeking some adventure in your life? Think you can handle 80% humidity combined with temperatures over 30 degrees? Well this little slice of hippie paradise might just be right up your street. Note, shoes and clothing are optional. 

Thankfully, we (Georgia) were smart and booked an Airbnb with a pool, because my goodness you’re gonna need it. The only downside was forgetting to read the small print where it mentioned clothing is… optional. Enter a well-travelled, eccentric Danish lady. The self-titled Rainmaker. She proceeded to tell us her life story, including all of the men she’s “dated” around the world, enough to “fill a book” in her words, all whilst fully naked in the pool. As you do. 

Mazunte is a real gem. True to form, and as expected based on our experience of Mexico so far, the food was exceptional. Standouts: Icaro, Umami, The Fish Burrito, Falafel El Loco, Alessandro. If you’re feeling adventurous, may we introduce you to MFC (Mazunte Fried Chicken) and the unexpected surprise of spaghetti as a 20 peso side dish. Perfect appetiser ahead of a sunset walk to Punta Cometa too. Which on a side note was a little disappointing. 

In total, we spent five nights here, and we easily could have done another five. It was perfect to let time stand still a little. Relax in our little haven. Even smuggle dogs into the resort to enjoy a pool day with us (we miss you Lola, hope you’re doing well). We did have a go at the beach. A short and sweet excursion. But, the sand was too hot and the waves were too strong (1x pair of sunglasses lost). Plus we both loathe paying for any form of shade. However, can recommend Pina Coladas from the 24/7 happy hour on the beach. 

Our opinion, this small beachside town felt like it was stuck in a strange juxtaposition. On one hand we had superfast starlink wifi in the resort, some of the most amazing food we have had on the trip so far, and some rather delightful 5* resorts popping up. But there is a simplicity to the place. Simplicity in the form of no official mains water connection, only a dubious looking water tanker that rocks up when they want during the week. Always a tricky moment after the morning rituals when the toilet doesn’t flush. A very inconsistent rubbish disposal system that results in locals burning their rubbish. Combined with some interesting noises and smells at night. 

But we see the appeal. The locals we spoke to and any expats who moved here all share the same hunger for a simpler way of living. We met a chap called Felix, an ex-music producer from France who relocated 17 years ago. No bank account, no formal employment. Just an old Nokia phone, 2 dogs and a wealthy friend who lets him stay in the resort for free. The guy is living, L-I-V-I-N.

G&M 

Oaxaca, Mexico.

Note to self, published journey times for Mexican public transport are a little… generous. You arrive when you arrive, end of. 

Full of inspiration on the back of watching the Netflix series; Street Food: Latin America, we arrived in Oaxaca seeking the best Tlayundas around. Naturally our first stop was Mercado 20 de Noviembre, us and all the other tourists who had the same idea. However, it didn’t disappoint. I mean, a large toasted corn tortilla, covered with asiento (pork lard), refried beans, quesillo (Oaxaca cheese), and accompanied by an assortment of toppings to appease any dietary requirement. Go on then. 

Any Oaxacan will tell you that a day in Oaxaca is not complete without a Chocomio. So what did we do… every night? It’s a must. 

If you’re looking for a little more adventure away from the more tourist focused spots of Oaxaca, the markets of Centro de Abasto offer all the excitement of a Moroccan souk coupled with the smells of an abattoir. Prepare to get completely lost, and be faced with some rather precarious food hygiene practices. Don’t ask too many questions, just eat. 

We eventually found what we were looking for, thanks to the large Netflix logo signs around the market. Memelas Dona Vale. We knew we were in the right place when we saw the legend herself, Dona Vale, sitting at the counter. Don’t shy away from their famous morita sauce, it’s spicy but manageable. Strawberry milkshakes are on offer for those who need it. 

Oaxaca central in all its glory is quite small so it was time to play ultimate tourists for the day and sign up for a guided tour. In the spirit of getting bang for our buck, we signed up for the most jam packed itinerary, at the lowest cost, with the best reviews. So 8am the next day we were loaded on the shuttle bus with 12 other ultimate tourists and our eccentric host Andrea. By 10am the mezcal was open and disco ball switched on. This would explain the good reviews. First couple of stops included a 2500 year old big tree in Tula followed by a rug factory, where the average employee age was… questionably low. We minded our business though. Nice rugs too.

Then came the part we were all there for, Hierve el Agua. Petrified waterfalls created thousands of years ago. Atop the mountain are pools of water, lukewarm waters at best but relaxing and beautiful nonetheless. 

Next up we visited the magical town of Mitla. San Pablo Villa de Mitla to give it its full and decorated title. And yes magical town is an official title from the Mexican government for towns of specific cultural, historical or natural importance. Ooh. Mitla has some amazing architecture from the Zaptoec civilisation. The greca mosaics were very indulgent. 

To finish up, a buffet style dinner off the highway, sadly not highlighting the best of Oaxacan cooking but after a full day we’d take anything. To wash this all down the Mexican way, we were off to a mezcal tasting class. Well officially it was to visit a mezcal factory and learn about the process of making, but given it wrapped up by tasting 15 different types of mezcal, it feels more appropriate. Our consensus – pure mezcal isnt really for us, especially those that were 50% alcohol, but we can certainly appreciate a crema de Mezcal. 

Right, that’s enough city for now, off to the beach for some R&R and probably a bit of sunburn.

¡Buen dia!

G&M 

CDMX, Mexico.

Sadly, after a very enjoyable 11 days our time in CDMX came to an end, but not after squeezing in a few more highlights of the trip. 

Palacio Postal was a real treat to wander around. Getting lost in the beauty from the italian architect, Adamo Boari. That staircase, cor’ blimey. 

If you’re in need of a good coffee, head to La laguna in Doctores, Cuauthemoc. A repurposed industrial warehouse, now home to cafe and collective workspace for creatives and artists alike. You feel like you’re part of a very exclusive cool club, we did at least.  

Cafe de Nadie, again this is not a unique recommendation but we can see why it’s become popular. A unique menu served to you in an old CD case and CDMX inspired cocktails to back it up. 

To cover the sports front, mandatory attendance at a Lucha Libre match was ticked off the list. An unforgettable experience to say the least. A little too much lycra for our liking, but the most entertainment you could squeeze out of a tenner. Also rolled in was some F1 action at the Hermanos Rodriguez circuit. Our third F1 event of the season, someone would think we are doing it on purpose. 

But taking top spot for our entire CDMX trip was a Mexican cooking class on a Trajinera (colourful, flat-bottomed boat) on the canals of Xochimilco. Our host, Claudia and her family welcomed us aboard and accustomed us to the traditions of her ancestors and indulged us in a hands-on cooking experience, and indulge we did. Who knew a plantain could double as a tortilla. 

We must say, CDMX has been a real treat. 5/5 would recommend. Come hungry. Recommendations of our favourites are sat ready waiting for you.  

But alas the show must go on, and ahead of us laid an 8 hour adventure aboard an ADO GL (executive edition i’ll have you know) bus to Oaxaca. 

¡Mucha gracias!

G&M 

CDMX, Mexico.

Well, we’re a week in. It’s fair to say that CDMX has exceeded expectations. Note to self, don’t trust everything you read online. Mexico City is a real gem. Well we think so at least. 

We’ve had a good peek at a fair portion of the more centrally located neighbourhoods over the last week. Despite purchasing one of the city’s public transport cards, a MI card, we have still continued our daily tradition of stomping… everywhere. Thankfully this city is very walkable which has allowed us to cover some distance and get a feel for many of the distinctly different neighborhoods on offer. Our stand-out favourites are the trendy, up-scale neighbourhoods of Roma (Norte and Sur) and Condesa. Within the tree-lined streets and blended architecture, there are some real culinary delights to sample. From the taquerias on almost every street corner to Michelin starred restaurants located in very unassuming spots on quiet side streets. Even the plethora of bakeries and cafes available tells you the people of Mexico City take their food and drink seriously. We agreed the other day that CDMX is the city that has become unintentionally cool, without really trying very hard. 

Our culinary journey has taken us from a street taqueria in Chinatown where we tried Lengua (Tongue), Carillera (Cheek), Ojos (Eyes), Sesos (Brains) for the first (and most probably, last) time, to a personal favourite, Expendio de Maiz. Would recommend, oh and don’t forget to take cash. Additionally, you must, MUST try the Bunuelos dessert from Taquerias Orincos. My goodness me.

Shameless plug, check out our ‘Recommendations’ on the website for more information on the places we have visited so far. We have been squirreling away in the background working on this for a few weeks, mostly trying to figure out the user interface of WordPress…

In addition to the endless tacos consumed, we have began to sample some of the local cultural activities, from attending some of the many parades celebrating the annual Dia De Muertos festival to taking in the breathtaking architecture of the Biblioteca Vasconcelos, including its stunning public gardens. Even featuring an unintentional attendance of a Party Action Nacional (PAN) demonstration on the main CDMX street, Avenue de la Reforma. Not entirely sure of the political agenda so don’t hold us to this.

We have found that there is limited English spoken here, which has been very useful for us and our very limited knowledge of the Spanish language. Allowing us to fully immerse ourselves and get some much needed practice in. Who knows, in 7 months time we might be eligible for citizenship. 

Tips

1. Always translate the menu after you’ve eaten from a street vendor, otherwise it might just out you off
2. Keep a look out for pavements that have huge gaping holes in, or just end sporadically, or better still has dog poo smeared everywhere…
3. Make sure you slap on that suncream, the UV is no joke 
4. Only order Cappuccino if you like your coffee with an extra shot of salt 
5. Have small denominations of pesos on you for those lovely street vendors, support local where you can!
6. DON’T drink the tap water

¡Hasta Luego!

G&M 

CDMX, Mexico.

The first 24 hours has been nothing short of eventful. Landing into CDMX airport at 2am wasn’t our smartest idea but alas the journey started. One lost pair of glasses, or opticos as they’re otherwise known as, retrieved and delirium kicking in, we headed to the metro. A seemingly easy task for 2 kids familiar with city life, thank you Melbourne and London, however, this turned out to be our first mistake. We learnt very quickly that cash is crucial, and don’t let the TikTok’s fool you, USD is not good enough, get those Pesos out before leaving the airport.

Whilst we waited out 3pm for our Airbnb check-in, we headed to Panadería Rosetta. This isn’t a niche recommendation by any means, but we can confirm it lives up to the hype online, 4.5/5. Its best selling factor in our opinion, being that it opened pre 8am.  Another thing we learnt, this is a rarity, CDMX is a slow riser in the mornings.

With 8 more hours to kill and two heavy backpacks to lug around, we found ourselves a nice park to settle in, Rio De Janiero Park, would also recommend. To set the scene, dogs running everywhere, locals on their early morning walk and two comically obvious tourists people watching, soaking in the fact we did in fact actually quit our jobs and this is our life now. To pass the time, we basked in the sunlight and, naturally, invented a new card game. Suits you. Instructions to follow…

Post check in – the real exploring started. We walked without any plan, just how we like it. First official stop was Mercato de Artesanias, oddly stepping into the market the pace of life slowed down, this little echo chamber that exists within the city centre, removed from the chaos of the streets. We got to browsing. Eventually all that browsing did work up quite an appetite, enter the conveniently placed street food market out the back. We also quickly learnt that all those swanky Mexican restaurants in London are heavily westernised, and we had no idea what to order. We were also off grid at this point so the convenience of google translate wasn’t an option. So, we put our faith in a very kind local and let him pick our meal. A success. A double success given that our unaccustomed stomachs could handle it.

That’s when jet lag reared its head and it was time for us to be horizontal. Sadly we made no attempt to adjust to local time. Lucky we have 7 months to do that.

Tips;

1. Get cash before you leave the airport (local currency ideally)
2. Learn very basic Spanish, its more rewarding to immerse yourself but also English is not as widely spoken here, especially if you’re heading off the beaten path.
3. Use Uber or Didi, not street taxis
4. Download Dazz cam (if you’re into the film camera aesthetic, okay 35mm) we use the GRD and FQS settings mostly. Note, GDR is part of Dazz Pro (which obviously you have to pay for). Alternatively, you can be tight like us and screenshot after taking the image. (Hey, we’re unemployed, what do you expect…)
5. AI is your friend, use it, let it do the leg work for you.
6. Take all your belongings before getting off the plane